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  <title>Car Builder Solutions - P4 Replica</title>
  <updated>2024-08-29T16:53:16+01:00</updated>
  <author>
    <name>Car Builder Solutions</name>
  </author>
  <entry>
    <id>https://www.carbuilder.com/blogs/p4-replica/p4-build-blog-post-15</id>
    <published>2024-08-29T16:53:16+01:00</published>
    <updated>2024-09-05T10:23:51+01:00</updated>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.carbuilder.com/blogs/p4-replica/p4-build-blog-post-15"/>
    <title>15. Drive shafts and tail pipes</title>
    <author>
      <name>Neil Foreman</name>
    </author>
    <content type="html">
      <![CDATA[<p><strong>October 2023</strong></p>
<p>A quiet-ish time at work between catalogues and a spark of enthusiasm ignited by our acquisition of a rather special, part-built Ultima GTR has got me going again on our final P4 - and it's time to sort out the drive shafts and CV joints.</p>
<p>The rear hub stub axles accept good-old, Ford Scorpio 100mm dia. CV joints - circa 1986 which are still available from motor factors. The output flanges on the Porsche transmission accept larger, 108mm diameter joints. I found a box of new/old CV joints gathering dust and surface rust in long-hidden boxes at the back of some workshop shelving. Fortunately, they're easy to strip and clean. I'll probably buy new ones but these'll do for now.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/CV_joints_600x600.jpg?v=1723041088"></div>
<p> </p>
<p>Driveshaft length is obviously non standard, as is the mix of 25 tooth spline on the Ford end and the 28 tooth spline on the Porsche end, so the driveshafts will have to be custom made and I'll have to make some accurate measurements to get them right first time.</p>
<p>Optimum driveshaft length is measured when the car is sitting at normal ride height. Our little hydraulic lift is supporting the P4 chassis with all four suspension corners on full droop, so I borrowed a rear wheel from the Ultima (same PCD) and set up a jack under the tyre to raise the suspension on one side to an equivalent ride height of about 5 inches. It's important at this stage to make sure both flange faces are parallel by tweeking the rear suspension camber adjustment.</p>
<p>Over a decade ago I designed and made the engine and gearbox mounts to align the Porsche output flanges perfectly with the rear wheel hubs - across the car but, because the transmission is inverted, they sit slightly higher than the hubs vertically - no problem for CV joints  - that's what they're designed for, but it necessitates accurate measuring of the distances between the two flanges.</p>
<p>I took three dimensions  as accurately as I could using a tape measure -</p>
<p> From the top of the hub flange to the bottom of the gearbox flange 512mm</p>
<p> From the bottom of the hub flange to the top of the gearbox flange - 532mm</p>
<p> From the centre of the hub flange to the centre of the gearbox flange - 511mm</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/CV_dims_pic_600x600.jpg?v=1723041089"></div>
<p>Of course all the drive flanges are dished making it difficult to measure the centre to centre dimension so I cut some accurate aluminium rectangle templates of the side profile dimensions of the drive flanges  - 100mm and 108mm and marked the half way (centre height) on each. I laid them on a flat board, accurately squared and positioned to the dimensions measured on the car and measured the centre dimension from that.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Flange_dimension_mock_up_87a93623-6fd5-409d-8f5e-17ca670650d5_600x600.jpg?v=1723041087"></div>
<p>Historically, GKN manufactured all of our driveshafts but this time, 20 years on, they failed to respond to my three attempts at communication so Matt searched around and found an engineering company called 'Brand Mechanical Engineering' in Birmingham. I received a call back from Brian within five minutes of sending my email enquiry.  He asked me to send a sketch of the dimensions and one each of the CV joints - apparently there are now many versions of the 'same' joints. <span style="font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Open Sans', 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;">I made two stiff cardboard discs for the driveshaft flanges with the centre clearly marked. Two stiff aluminium welding rods held together between my fingers enabled me to set the exact distance between the centre of the two discs and transfer the two rods to a metre rule to read-off the dimension.</span></p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Drive_flange_centr_finding_600x600.jpg?v=1723030120"></div>
<p>Here's my fag-packet sketch of all the information he needed.</p>
<p> </p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/CV_dims_sketch_d1ad9671-c568-405e-9ebb-1b2258d3c5c7_600x600.jpg?v=1723041087"></div>
<p>Brian quoted me £325 each  + vat and shipping for the driveshafts - compared to GKN's price of £66 each in 2003. That's a lot of money so I thought I'd check and measure the dimensions again using a revised method. Heres the revised drawing.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Revised_driveshaft_drawing_600x600.jpg?v=1723030118"></div>
<p>Here's the nearside driveshaft with CV joints trial fitted on full suspension droop. Perfect. I've ordered high tensile stainless bolts so next it's paint the shafts, CV's and gaiter shrouds.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Drive_shaft_trial_fit_600x600.jpg?v=1723030119"></div>
<p>I made some gaskets for the CV to flange joints using the CV case as a pattern/jig. the metal is hard enough to cut the holes accurately with a 'doming punch'. I added bolts through each hole as I punched them. AI then used a little brass hammer to tap around the inside and outside edges of the flange to mark the gasket paper with an accurate cutting line for scissors.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/CV_gaskets_600x600.jpg?v=1723030118"></div>
<p>I powder-coated the shafts, CV housings and gaiter cups before assembling it all.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/CV_joints_fitted_600x600.jpg?v=1723030120"></div>
<p>At some point in the (hopefully near) future I'll have to load the car on a trailer and take it to have the exhaust fabrication completed, so, in the absence of the proper wheels, Matt found four space-saver wheels on ebay. Not the right rolling diameter but good enough for now.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Space_Saver_wheel_d52c97be-507e-426d-b7eb-57d4b3592bb0_600x600.jpg?v=1723041058"></div>
<p>I jacked-up the rear of the car, clear of the lift, on both rear wheels, adjusted the ride height to 5 inches and the camber to 0 degrees on the rear suspension ........</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Jacked_up_600x600.jpg?v=1723030120"></div>
<p>...... ensuring the chassis was level with my digital protractor.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Protractor_on_chassis_600x600.jpg?v=1723030119"></div>
<p>You can see here just how wide the quad-cam engine is and how little room there is for posh four branch manifolds........</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Front_of_Engine_Jan_22_600x600.jpg?v=1723041088"></div>
<p>....... so I opted to keep the original cast manifolds (see their preparation in an earlier post). This is the left side of the engine bay. You can just see the manifold outlet flange on the right with it's Lambda sensor thread</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Exhaust_manifold_in_chassis_600x600.jpg?v=1723030121"></div>
<p>The exhaust tailpipes are a significant feature of the rear view of a P4. The original cars had two, staggered 50mm-ish pipes either side of the lower cut-out in the tail panel. IVA now dictates that all tailpipes have beaded ends so we had a batch made at 75mm diameter. Fortunately there were two left on the shelf. Positioning them and spacing them correctly in the cut-out is essential or it'll be one of those 'first thing you see' moments every time I look at the car. </p>
<p>The tail section has been aligned and pre-fitted for years so I know it's in the right place. My challenge here is to mount the tailpipes alone - effectively in mid-air and secure them firmly in their correct, finished position before the car goes to an exhaust specialist to manufacture the <span style="font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Open Sans', 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;">components between the tailpipes and the manifolds - that is, Catalytic converters, silencers and the pipework in between. The tailpipes must be neatly and evenly spaced to look right but must allow some clearance when the tail section is open. I don't want to start thinking about final mounting options for the exhaust yet so I just need to find a way to hold the tailpipes firmly in position.</span></p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Tailpipes_held_600x600.jpg?v=1723030119"></div>
<p> </p>
<p>The tail section is hinged at the rear and supported by a subframe section at the rear of the chassis. The subframe has an angled steel cross-piece 40mm x 20mm, twisted  at an angle of 29 degrees from horizontal. There's a sample of the tube in the picture below. I measured and cut two pieces of 25mm ply and glued them together to make a 50mm thick wooden beam. My plan is to cut a 25mm deep channel in the ply at the same angle as the chassis cross-piece so that I can clamp the beam to the steel crosspiece leaving it vertical roughly in the area where the tail pipes will have to be</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/milling_tailpie_support_beam_600x600.jpg?v=1723030120"></div>
<p>Here it is in situ. You can just see the black steel cross beam through the small opening. The tail hing is also mounted on the cross beam. The wooden beam is pushed over this from the engine side. </p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Tailpipe_support_beam_in_place_600x600.jpg?v=1723030120"></div>
<p>I taped two short pieces of 25mm dowel at 90 degrees on top and on the side of a tailpipe to space it evenly from the panel. I simply held the tailpipe in position and drew around the end on the wooden beam with a sharp pencil.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Marking_tailpipe_position_on_board_600x600.jpg?v=1723030120"></div>
<p>I marked the centre of both pencilled circles and clamped the beam to my milling machine bed. I first machined through with a 75mm hole cutter then cleaned up and accurately sized the hole with a circle cutter so the tailpipes are a nice sliding fit through the holes</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/CUtting_tailpipe_holes_600x600.jpg?v=1723030119"></div>
<p>And here they are - perfectly positioned for welding onto the exhaust. I'll probably cut the wood right cross the middle of the holes so I can screw the two pieces together to clamp the tailpipes.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Tailpipes_in_position_600x600.jpg?v=1723030119"></div>
<p>The view from inside the tail. The camera angle has distorted the view. The wooden jig/panel is actually vertical and the tailpipes are horizontal and in the right place. So, the manifolds are on and the tail pipes are in position. Just the middle bit to do.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Inside_tailpipes_600x600.jpg?v=1723030120"></div>
<div style="text-align: left;"></div>
<p>I've mentioned in a previous post that I have a complete, replacement Engine Wiring Loom that retains all the legal UK emissions features of the engine but does away with the systems I don't need - like ignition switch and door lock security  integration and exhaust gas recirculation.</p>
<p>Here it is, and the reflashed ECU, perched roughly in the position they'll eventually stay - in the side pod. Big decision time..... To fit the centre tub or take advantage of easy access all round and keep working on other stuff.</p>
<p>Find the answer in Blog post 16.</p>
<p>Bye for now.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Engine_board_and_ECU_600x600.jpg?v=1724946400"></div>]]>
    </content>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <id>https://www.carbuilder.com/blogs/p4-replica/brakes-inlet-plenum-rocker-covers-throttle-cable-and-air-filter</id>
    <published>2021-11-09T16:24:48+00:00</published>
    <updated>2024-07-23T14:19:27+01:00</updated>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.carbuilder.com/blogs/p4-replica/brakes-inlet-plenum-rocker-covers-throttle-cable-and-air-filter"/>
    <title>14. Brakes, Inlet plenum, Rocker covers, Throttle cable and Air Filter</title>
    <author>
      <name>Neil Foreman</name>
    </author>
    <content type="html">
      <![CDATA[<p><strong>November 2021.</strong></p>
<p style="color: #252525;">Bad news first. Three months ago, I approached 'Hi-Spec Motorsport' in Dartford to supply a rear brake set-up with an electric handbrake to match the front brakes that we bought from them a decade ago. They said, 'No problem', so I paid them two thousand pounds up front and delivered my assembled rear uprights to their facility. Long story short, despite several promises of progress, they failed to deliver and couldn't tell me when they'd be able to deliver. I asked for a refund and took another trip to Dartford to collect my uprights, which were still in the same box I left them in.</p>
<p style="color: #252525;">Appalling customer service, which I would have discovered earlier had I checked their online reviews, I'm still living and learning!</p>
<p style="color: #252525;">Anyone want a set of Hi-Spec front brakes for Ford 5-stud fitment? No? I didn't think so.</p>
<p style="color: #252525;">The good news: Matt organised a full set of Wilwood brakes, including electronic spot handbrake calipers, from our friends at Rally Design, and they arrived today. I haven't had a chance to unpack it all yet, but so far, it's all looking good.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Wilwood_20boxes_1_480x480.jpg?v=1707909463" alt="" style="float: none;"></div>
<p style="color: #252525;">The fronts on the left are pretty much good to go, straight out of the box. Just a little hole adjustment required.</p>
<p style="color: #252525;">But the rear bells and mounting plates have been supplied as basic components and need quite a bit of careful measuring and machining to mount the discs, the main calipers and the handbrake spot caliper. There are a couple of extra bells that offer a different offset.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Brake_20parts_20Nov_2021_1_480x480.jpg?v=1707909533" alt="" style="float: none;"></div>
<p><strong>JUNE 2022</strong></p>
<p style="color: #252525;">Phew, that was a long, cold, and busy winter, which, due to staff shortages, I've mostly been spending in the warehouse. But I've spent the odd half-hour mulling over the brakes and their mounting options, which, at my age, is one of those jobs that needs my full, uninterrupted concentration for a few days.</p>
<p style="color: #252525;">The front caliper mounting is relatively straightforward. A (black) CNC - machined, aluminium adapter mounts the caliper to the original, Scorpio-dimensioned mounting holes on our upright.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Front_caliper_mounted_new_1000_480x480.jpg?v=1706537960" style="float: none;"></div>
<p>Our rear uprights are not handed but were cast with caliper mounting lugs on each side so they could be drilled for near-side and off-side orientation. Mounting the rear calipers (on the left, here), was pretty straightforward. The (polished) mounting bracket was pre-drilled for the caliper mounts supplied oversize. I miled it to size and drilled the other two holes for mounting to the upright lugs.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Rear_brake_mock_up_2_1000_480x480.jpg?v=1706537998" alt="" style="float: none;"></div>
<p>The electric handbrake caliper, however, was far from straightforward. You can see here the cad-plated mounting plate with two 3/8" unf-threaded holes. I've assembled the pads, and I've located the caliper on the disc using plastic shims to give a nominal 1mm clearance on the disc. You can see in the picture that the mounts do not line up.</p>
<p><img src="/images/uploaded/Hbrake%20caliper%20side%20view.jpeg" alt="" width="100%"></p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Hbrake_20caliper_20side_20view_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974280" alt="" style="float: none;"></div>
<p><span style="font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Open Sans', 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif; color: #252525;">So, a couple of hours of careful measuring and making cardboard and then aluminium templates eventually led to a template that I used to mark two plates from a sheet of 5mm steel. and cut them with a 1mm disc on my Makita angle grinder.</span></p>
<p><img src="/images/uploaded/CUtting%20plates%202_1000.jpeg" alt="" width="100%"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/CUtting_20plates_202_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974368" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/CUtting_20plates_202_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974368"></p>
<p>Here are the two parts for one mount. I've blasted them to remove the scale from the plate. The plan is to weld them together, overlapping them by about 8mm, to bridge the total 10mm offset between the two mounting faces.</p>
<p><img src="/images/uploaded/H%20brake%20mounting%20plates.jpeg" alt="" width="100%"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/H_20brake_20mounting_20plates_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974392" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/H_20brake_20mounting_20plates_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974392"></p>
<p>Welded both sides.</p>
<p><img src="/images/uploaded/H%20brake%20bkt%20welded_1000.jpeg" alt="" width="100%"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/H_20brake_20bkt_20welded_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974413" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/H_20brake_20bkt_20welded_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974413"></p>
<p>Here are the two finished brackets - blasted and silver powder-coated.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Rear_20caliper_20brakckets_20finished_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974435" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Rear_20caliper_20brakckets_20finished_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974435"><img src="/images/uploaded/Rear%20caliper%20brakckets%20finished.jpeg" alt="" width="100%"></p>
<p>Handbrake caliper mounted.</p>
<p>It's a good time to begin the 'Unsprung Weight' calculations for IVA.</p>
<p>Rear hub, disc and caliper assembly 19 Kg. each.</p>
<p>Front Hub, disc and caliper assembly 15 Kg. each.</p>
<p>Just wheel and tyre weights to add.</p>
<p><img src="/images/uploaded/Hbrake%20finished_1000.jpeg" alt="" width="100%"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Hbrake_20finished_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974451" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Hbrake_20finished_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974451"></p>
<p>Front and rear, assembled and mounted. Good clearance all-round. So far, so good.</p>
<p><img src="/images/uploaded/Brakes%20on%20Car%20Sept%2022_1000.jpeg" alt="" width="100%"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Brakes_20on_20Car_20Sept_2022_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974470" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Brakes_20on_20Car_20Sept_2022_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974470"></p>
<p>Back on the inlet plenum, rubbing down the cast finish with a combination of flap wheels, Scotchbrite discs, and a few sheets of Wet and Dry, working down through the grit range with aching arms and worn-out finger prints. This time I concentrated on the hard-to-reach corners missed by the larger sanders I used earlier. One of my few remaining air tools, this die-grinder came in very handy, fitted with a felt-bob on a tapered spindle. A smaller felt bob in my Dremel managed to reach even tighter corners and radii.</p>
<p><img src="/images/uploaded/Polish%20plenum%20collage.jpeg" alt="" width="100%"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Polish_20plenum_20collage_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974501" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Polish_20plenum_20collage_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974501"></p>
<p>There's a lot of residual polish, abrasive, and aluminium dust on every surface of the casting, so it's worth a litre of gun-wash thinners in a tray to give it all a thorough wash, and another clean litre to wash it all again, followed by a blast with an air line. I'll run a tap down all of the threads to clean them out.</p>
<p><img src="/images/uploaded/washing%20plenum.jpeg" alt="" width="100%"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/washing_20plenum_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974521" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/washing_20plenum_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974521"></p>
<p>There were a couple of crappy, corroded, push-in, steel hosetail unions on the plenum. This one connects the plenum vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator. The original casting holes that these unions were pressed into can be tapped into 1/8" NPT, but our stock hosetails aren't as long as the steel ones, so I drilled a brass 1/8" NPT plug, cut a 10mm hosetail from a 'T' piece, turned an extension spacer, and silver soldered them together to match the length of the steel one.</p>
<p><img src="/images/uploaded/Hosetail%20collage.jpeg" alt="" width="100%"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Hosetail_20collage_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974537" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Hosetail_20collage_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974537"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>The left-hand picture shows the throttle cable mount and butterfly quadrant before the inlet plenum was modified. The layout is designed for a front-engined, left-hand-drive car; the throttle cable goes over the top of the engine to the pedal on the other side.</p>
<p>The black lines and arc between them show the wedge of aluminium that will be cut out to straighten the butterfly mounting flange from front to back.</p>
<p>The right-hand picture shows the new flange, welded and dressed in its new position. The same two throttle cable components are now impossibly close together. The cable has to be repositioned to pull in exactly the opposite direction—now, in a rear-engined, right-hand-drive car.</p>
<p><img src="/images/uploaded/new%20pic%20with%20arc_1000.jpeg" alt="" width="100%"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/new_20pic_20with_20arc_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974566" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/new_20pic_20with_20arc_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974566"></p>
<p>In the pictures above, you can see the black bracket that mounts the outer throttle cable and return spring. It sits on a raised, threaded boss, which is part of the inlet plenum. It's in the way, so it has to be removed, mostly by milling, then by powerfile, then dressed and polished by hand to match the rest of the casting.</p>
<p><img src="/images/uploaded/Cable%20outer%20collage.jpeg" alt="" width="100%"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Cable_20outer_20collage_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974580" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Cable_20outer_20collage_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974580"></p>
<p>This is the route the throttle cable must now take. Down across the rocker cover and across the chassis frame, turn right along the sill to the pedal box at the front.</p>
<p>The newly repositioned throttle body now directs the rubber inlet tube tangentially across the rocker cover, then forward to the mass airflow sensor tube. The current plan is to modify our stainless mesh air filter to fit on the front of the MAFS tube, positioning it directly behind the driver's door air duct.</p>
<p>You can see here, on either side of the upper rubber manifold, the two PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation), breather hosetails, both in a new position now that the throttle body has changed position.</p>
<p>The one on the right was originally pushed into the short rubber hose, connecting across the engine to the other rocker cover.</p>
<p>The one on the left originally connected to a hosetail in a grommet in the rocker cover in the picture, but to a hole that is now under the rubber and inaccessible.</p>
<p>On the bottom right of the picture, you can see the backplate of the original Ford Air filter. This would have been in the front right wheel arch but is now positioned in the airflow behind the P4 driver's door.</p>
<p><img src="/images/uploaded/Air%20intake%20to%20filter.jpeg" alt="" width="100%"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Air_20intake_20to_20filter_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974597" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Air_20intake_20to_20filter_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974597"></p>
<p>Careful measurement determined the position of a new 25mm breather hole in the right hand rocker cover, a few cm's to the left of the original one. And here's the grommet and hosetail from the original hole.</p>
<p><img src="/images/uploaded/Old%20and%20new%20breather%20holes_1000.jpeg" alt="" width="100%"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Air_20intake_20to_20filter_1_d4edf2a8-f312-407f-87ca-f7def07d6858_480x480.jpg?v=1716974610" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Air_20intake_20to_20filter_1_d4edf2a8-f312-407f-87ca-f7def07d6858_480x480.jpg?v=1716974610"></p>
<p>The thickness of the aluminium cover around the new breather hole is 3mm. The thickness around the original hole is 7mm. So I made a 4mm-thick aluminium riser ring and glued it to the cover with high-temperature epoxy. The breather grommet will fit perfectly.</p>
<p><img src="/images/uploaded/New%20breather%20spacer_1000.jpeg" alt="" width="100%"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/New_20breather_20spacer_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974625" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/New_20breather_20spacer_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974625"></p>
<p>On the inside of each cover is a pressed steel breather baffle, like a plenum in reverse, that uses intake suction to collect engine fumes and vapour evenly along the length of the cover PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation). The original, central PCV hole has a pressed (collector) dome over it, but the new hole does not. I need to make an extension to the baffle that will best duplicate the breather air flow of the original hole.</p>
<p><img src="/images/uploaded/Rocker%20cover%20baffle_1000.jpeg" alt="" width="100%"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Rocker_20cover_20baffle_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974642" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Rocker_20cover_20baffle_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974642"></p>
<p>Here's the cardboard template and the 1mm-thick aluminium extension piece I made for the new PCV valve position.</p>
<p><img src="/images/uploaded/baffle%20template%20and%20mod%20panel.jpeg" alt="" width="100%"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/baffle_20template_20and_20mod_20panel_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974653" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/baffle_20template_20and_20mod_20panel_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974653"></p>
<p>... and here it is fitted. The arrow points to a folded-down section of the baffle plate. This is to even up the fume extraction along the cover.</p>
<p><img src="/images/uploaded/new%20baffle%20fitted%20with%20arrow_1000.jpeg" alt="" width="100%"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/new_20baffle_20fitted_20with_20arrow_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974695" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/new_20baffle_20fitted_20with_20arrow_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974695"></p>
<p>Although the rocker covers are in pretty much new condition, the surface finish was untouched from manufacture to powder coating to assembly. Casting marks and molten aluminium 'splatter' both inside and out left a rough, untidy finish that, to me, was unacceptable. A few hours of filing, scraping, and rubbing down had them ready for stripping and re-coating. You can see on the lower cover that I have made a cap for the old breather hole and welded it in.</p>
<p><img src="/images/uploaded/Rocker%20covers.jpeg" alt="" width="100%"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Rocker_20covers_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974718" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Rocker_20covers_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974718"></p>
<p>Blasted, dressed, and newly powder coated with a new set of seals and gaskets from US eBay. Nice.</p>
<p><img src="/images/uploaded/Rocker%20covers%20finished.jpeg" alt="" width="100%"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Rocker_20covers_20finished_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974735" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Rocker_20covers_20finished_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974735"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>This original engine I.D. lable was just stuck to one rocker cover and was the only indicator of the date of manufacture of the engine, possibly invaluable for IVA later this century. Fortunately, it's printed on paper-thin plastic and was fairly easy to remove intact.</p>
<p><img src="/images/uploaded/Ford%20engine%20ID_1000.jpeg" alt="" width="100%"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Ford_20engine_20ID_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974749" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Ford_20engine_20ID_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974749"></p>
<p>Back at the end of the last century, several American accessory companies produced stainless and aluminium replacements for these standard plastic plug wire covers. Although I can find pictures online, I can find no one who still has them for sale.</p>
<p><img src="/images/uploaded/PLUG%20WIRE%20COVERS_1000.jpeg" alt="" width="100%"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/PLUG_WIRE_COVERS_1000_480x480.jpg?v=1716974764" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/PLUG_WIRE_COVERS_1000_480x480.jpg?v=1716974764"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Here are the modifications I made to the cad-plated butterfly actuator plate on the throttle body—basically to convert the cable pull to the opposite direction while retaining the butterfly operation. The plate is staked onto the butterfly shaft, and <span style="font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Open Sans', 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif; color: #252525;">I felt it was important not to disturb the butterflys or the 'open' and 'closed' stops on the plate.</span></p>
<p>The left picture is the standard assembly, and the right picture is after modification. <span style="font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Open Sans', 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif; color: #252525;">The white arrow shows the direction of pull of the throttle cable, and the black arrows show the 'pull' direction of the return spring.</span></p>
<p>I removed and repositioned the black cable guide quadrant, rotating it 180 degrees around the shaft, and drilled and remounted it on the plate with two M3 bolts.</p>
<p>I cut off the angled, spring return section of the plate, made a replacement from 2mm stainless and bolted it on the plate 180 degrees from its original position.</p>
<p><img src="/images/uploaded/Throttle%20cable%20guide%20collage.jpeg" alt="" width="100%"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Throttle_20cable_20guide_20collage_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974789" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Throttle_20cable_20guide_20collage_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974789"></p>
<p>Here's the reversed-pull throttle linkage with the cable and return spring fitted. I've replaced three rocker cover bolts with extended M6 studding and nuts. I've made a simple bracket for the adjuster from a 20mm x 20mm stainless angle and mounted it on the studding. I'll make it look pretty later.</p>
<p><img src="/images/uploaded/new%20throttle%20spring%20and%20cable_1000.jpeg" alt="" width="100%"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/new_20throttle_20spring_20and_20cable_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974806" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/new_20throttle_20spring_20and_20cable_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974806"></p>
<p>Our Stainless mesh air filter (Part No. SSFIL) seemed like a good, free-flowing replacement for the huge, ugly original Ford filter, but I thought I could modify the original baseplate to mount the SSFIL. Here, I'm cutting away the outer 25mm. I'll then mount it on the lathe to trim and clean up the cut edge. The central inlet flange is too large for the SSFIL hole, so..........</p>
<p><img src="/images/uploaded/Bandsaw%20old%20air%20filter%20base.jpeg" alt="" width="100%"></p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Bandsaw_20old_20air_20filter_20base_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974822" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Bandsaw_20old_20air_20filter_20base_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974822"></p>
<p>....... I used some curved blade snips to enlarge the hole in the stainless base of the SSFIL.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/SSFIL_20trimming_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716974850"></p>
<p>Here is the SSFIL bonded to the modified, original Ford filter base with our black polyurethane adhesive/sealant. The four studs will mount it to the MAF housing.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/SSFIL_20on_20base_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716975265" alt=""></p>
<p>Like this. It's now positioned directly in the airflow through and behind the driver's door. So far, so good, but the filter is just bouncing around on the end of the rubber inlet. It needs mounting to something, and the only adjacent mounting place is the 32-mm-diameter, angled roll-bar brace. Hmmm - a little thought is required here.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/SSFIL_20fitted_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716975282" alt=""></p>
<p>Here's what I came up with. The filter has four M6 studs that secure it to the MAF housing. I reckoned that I could fix a 3mm aluminium plate to two studs and weld it to a tubular clamp around the roll bar brace. I supported the filter on blocks of wood in a neutral position, mid-air, and cut a stiff cardboard template shaped around the tube.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/SSFIL_20mount_20first_20shot_1_480x480.jpg?v=1716975299" alt=""></p>
<p>Here's the template and the roughed-out plate.</p>
<p><img src="/images/uploaded/Blog_Images/P4/SSFIL%20bkt%20and%20pattern.jpg" alt="" width="100%"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/SSFIL_20bkt_20and_20pattern_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721740643" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/SSFIL_20bkt_20and_20pattern_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721740643"></p>
<p>The roll bar brace is 32-mm-diameter steel tube. Our 35mm aluminium tube has an I.D. of about 32mm. I cut a 100-mm length and sliced it lengthways on our saw.</p>
<p><img src="/images/uploaded/Blog_Images/P4/SSFIL%20slicing%20tube.jpg" alt="" width="100%"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/SSFIL_20slicing_20tube_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721740694" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/SSFIL_20slicing_20tube_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721740694"></p>
<p>One half of the aluminium tube stayed in place when I pressed it onto the roll bar brace, so, with the filter positioned securely and the aluminium bracket trimmed neatly around the aluminium tube, I bonded the two parts with a blob of filler at each end. I reckoned that would be enough to maintain their relative positions until our mate, Dave at AEON Sportscars (07938 822637) could TiG at tack weld on each side.</p>
<p><img src="/images/uploaded/Blog_Images/P4/SSFIL%20bkt%20with%20filler.jpg" alt="" width="100%"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/SSFIL_20bkt_20with_20filler_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721740711" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/SSFIL_20bkt_20with_20filler_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721740711"></p>
<p>Great job, Dave. I cut away a couple of millimetres at each end of the plate......</p>
<p><img src="/images/uploaded/Blog_Images/P4/SSFIL%20bkt%20welded.jpg" alt="" width="100%"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/SSFIL_20bkt_20welded_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721740725" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/SSFIL_20bkt_20welded_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721740725"></p>
<p>...... as clearance for two stainless hose clips, which secured the other half of the tube around the roll bar brace. This picture is taken from underneath.</p>
<p><img src="/images/uploaded/Blog_Images/P4/SSfil%20clamped.jpg" alt="" width="100%"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/SSfil_20clamped_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721740742" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/SSfil_20clamped_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721740742"></p>
<p>And the top view. The chassis tubes still have their black PVC tape protection, which will stay on until the car is finished ( late 2044, at this rate !!) so the two aluminium tube halves will close up. That'll do.</p>
<p><img src="/images/uploaded/Blog_Images/P4/SSFIL%20fmtg%20top%20view.jpg" alt="" width="100%"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/SSFIL_20fmtg_20top_20view_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721740758" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/SSFIL_20fmtg_20top_20view_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721740758"></p>
<p><strong>3rd SEPTEMBER 2022</strong></p>
<p>Boy, this is turning into a proper long-term project. As I've probably written here many times before, my work at CBS always has to take priority. I've been working on a major revamp of our catalogue for Issue 36, including the re-taking and editing of hundreds of dodgy, low-res product photos, many of which were taken in the early days of digital photography. New product listings, more in-house manufacturing, staff shortages, and ever-increasing sales have, too, taken chunks out of my ever-shortening working days. The older I get, the more time it takes to refresh my brain on the current status of the P4 build—hence the big gaps between posts.</p>
<p><strong>11th OCTOBER 2023</strong></p>
<p style="color: #252525;">I'm embarrassed that it's taken so long to finish this post, but sometimes life just gets in the way. Issue 36 of our catalogue is finished and has been available for a few months now, but I've been working on a smaller, 130 page, 'Quick Look Guide' to all of our products.</p>
<p style="color: #252525;">I've been inspired to get cracking again by the arrival of an Ultima project at a similar stage of construction, so I have some wheels to borrow and measure to calculate the sizes we need for the P4. I've also dug out some new but dusty CV joints so I can also measure and order driveshafts.</p>
<p>Thanks for staying with us on this project. I hope you've enjoyed the read.</p>
<p> </p>]]>
    </content>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <id>https://www.carbuilder.com/blogs/p4-replica/13-gearbox-clean</id>
    <published>2021-08-24T08:19:25+01:00</published>
    <updated>2024-02-26T16:51:53+00:00</updated>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.carbuilder.com/blogs/p4-replica/13-gearbox-clean"/>
    <title>13. Gearbox clean and fit. Home Powder Coating. Engine loom. Inlet Plenum Mods. Making the Fuel Tank, Cooling plumbing.</title>
    <author>
      <name>Neil Foreman</name>
    </author>
    <content type="html">
      <![CDATA[<p>A little nostalgia. On the left is me and Matthew with the Renault V6 Turbo engine for our first P4 in 1990. On the right my Grandson, Isaac, is removing the exhaust studs from the engine of our final P4 in August 2021.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Matt_20Isaac_20collage_20low_20res_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707923021" alt="" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Matt_20Isaac_20collage_20low_20res_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707923021"></p>
<p>Before refitting the gearbox I thought I'd spend a little time dressing the adapter plate. I'd machined the straight edges and large radii fairly well but I'd just dressed the small corners on our linisher. Here, I'm working down through the grit range of Wet &amp; Dry paper on an orbital sander.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Polishing_20adapter_20plate_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707923090" alt="" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Polishing_20adapter_20plate_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707923090"></p>
<p>The Getrag, Porsche 996 Transaxle was brand new, but it's been sitting around in the workshop for over twelve years. Although there's no major corrosion on the aluminium castings, the plating on some of the bolts and plugs is corroded.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Cleaning_20Gearbox_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707923147" alt="" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Cleaning_20Gearbox_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707923147"></p>
<p>Washing the dirt off with thinners and a stiff paint brush works ok but I thought I'd try this acidic cleaner to try to bring the casting back to it's original, bright finish. This was the 'strongest', most expensive one I could find online. The plan was to brush it on, leave it to bubble away for a few minutes then wash it off with water. In reality it does bugger-all. Maybe there was not enough corrosion on the casing to get it's teeth into or maybe I've wasted fifteen quid.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Allbright_20gearbox_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707923210" alt="" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Allbright_20gearbox_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707923210"></p>
<p>A little more messing around with different procedures led me to this little wire brush from our Brush Pack (Part no: #BRUSHPAK) dipped in thinners and wiped off immediately with clean thinners on a rag. You can see the difference between the cleaned panel under the brush and the one next to it. Sorted.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Wire_20brush_20gearbox_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707923244" alt="" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Wire_20brush_20gearbox_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707923244"></p>
<p>The bare-metal finish of the gearbox output drive shaft flanges had years of surface rust. I masked the shaft and seal surfaces and blocked the through-hole with a piece of paint brush handle. A quick grit-blast cleaned them up nicely. And the modified gearchange cable-mounting bracket had only been treated to a temporary red oxide and satin black aerosol paint so that was off to the blasting cabinet too.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Before_20blasting_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707923307" alt="" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Before_20blasting_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707923307"></p>
<p>Matt bought this Powder Coating Kit a few years ago but we've never yet had the opportunity to try it out. It came with the gun, loads of empty bottles and a selection of different colour powders. I'm not sure which part of the P4 will get the Luminous Pink treatment.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Powder_20Kit_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707923353" alt="" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Powder_20Kit_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707923353"></p>
<p>I rescued this old Gallenkamp industrial oven from a skip over thirty years ago. The thermostat and timer controls have long gone but the element and fan are wired direct to a 13 Amp plug so it's quite easy to control the temperature with the ON/OFF switch.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Oven_20collage_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707923393" alt="" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Oven_20collage_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707923393"></p>
<p>Here are the drive shaft flanges with the bearing and seal surfaces masked and the cable bracket still hanging in the oven where they've been cured for 20 minutes at 150 degrees C. I'm very impressed with the kit. Great finish and easy to use. Not sure about the Light Grey on the cable bracket so I've ordered some Aluminium effect powder. Mustn't forget to tap out all the M10 flange holes.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/In_20oven_20and_20done_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707923440" alt="" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/In_20oven_20and_20done_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707923440"></p>
<p>I've re, re-powder coated the Gear Cable bracket with the new 'Silver Chrome' finish. I over-coated the two previous colours which has given a 'textured' finish which kind of matches the gearbox casing. I suspect it would be smooth and very shiny as a first coat. Dodgy welding that I hadn't noticed.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Gear_20Cable_20bkt_202_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707923517" alt="" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Gear_20Cable_20bkt_202_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707923517"></p>
<p>Here's the polished adapter plate and polished gearbox flange all assembled to the engine. It was a three-man job - two to manoeuvre the box into position and one to eye it up parallel to the adapter and turn the output flanges until the splines aligned and push it home.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Box_20on_20Engine_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707923551" alt="" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Box_20on_20Engine_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707923551"></p>
<p>Most of the original gearbox bolts are plated, steel flange, head bolts and although this is the only car it's ever been fitted to, many of them were beginning to show signs of corrosion. So, I replaced as many as I could with stainless flange head bolts. They're much nicer than a regular bolt and washer. I'm using stainless flange nuts wherever I can too.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Gearbox_20bolts_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707923603" alt="" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Gearbox_20bolts_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707923603"></p>
<p>I believe I've mentioned before that, historically, we used a pair of bonnet release catches from a Rover 800 series donor, on the tail section of the P4s. It's a tried and tested solution that, along with a safety hook at the top of the hoop, is a perfectly adequate and safe method of accurately positioning and holding-down the tail section. The catch mounting brackets were laser-cut along with all the other chassis plates and are already welded to the side-frames. I found a reasonable pair of catches on eBay which I've blasted, restored and bolted to the mounts. The pins are a generic size and shape and I've found a new pair on a different set of catches in our workshop.</p>
<p>Long ago I made a few pairs of pin mounting brackets from 3mm stainless. They're designed to rivet to the inside of the GRP tail section and are shaped to match it's curvature. Accurate positioning is critical and I recall always having to position and fit these brackets from inside the engine bay (before the engine was fitted, of course). On this occasion, the engine is already fitted, but the tail and it's hinge have also previously been accurately mounted and can be refitted in the exact correct position without the necessity of the centre tub being there.</p>
<p>I marked and drilled the 8mm hole for the pins, which can be enlarged later to allow a couple of millimetres adjustment in any direction.</p>
<p>I then marked through the mounting holes and drilled and cleko'd the brackets to the panel.</p>
<p>The plan is to countersink the outside of the panel and secure the brackets with 5mm countersunk pop rivets. However, although the shape match of the bracket and panel is fairly good there will be a slight mis-match that will distort the panel as I pull the rivets.</p>
<p>So, I blasted the rear of the brackets and cleaned, abraded the panel and bedded the bracket on a layer of Fibrefill and held it in place with six 5mm Clekos. The Clekos apply just enough tension to hold the bracket securely while the Fibrefill cures. When the Fibrefill is cured I'll remove the Clekos one by one and replace them with the rivets.</p>
<p>This method can be used on many panel-mounted brackets and fixings.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/BP_20Bkt_20collage_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707923642" alt="" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/BP_20Bkt_20collage_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707923642"></p>
<p>M5 Countersunk Pop Rivets are very strong and will secure the brackets tightly but it's important to match the angle of your countersink bit with the angle of the rivet head. Countersinks come in several angles - here's how to match one to the rivet.</p>
<p>I use Lazy Tongues on these larger rivet sizes and I apply a smear of Fibrefill to each countersink before each 'pull'.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Rivet_20collage_20new_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707923677" alt="" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Rivet_20collage_20new_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707923677"></p>
<p>Right - here we go !! Time to sort out the engine reassembly and wiring. I may have touched on this in a previous post but this project has been shelved for a long time and I need to refresh my memory on what we have and what to do with it. As I write this post I've just opened this box of parts that were removed from the engine twelve years ago.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Engine_20bits_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707923809" alt="" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Engine_20bits_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707923809"></p>
<p>This is the 'new' Engine Wiring Loom kit that I bought from U.S. company 'TELORVEK' around the same time. The original ECU (top left) was sent to them for 're-flashing'.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/New_20Loom_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707923881" alt="" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/New_20Loom_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707923881"></p>
<p>Here's the page from their catalogue. Ours is the fourth one down under Description. $1200 was a lot of wedge twelve years ago. This is all of course, just engine wiring. There is a ten-page, step by step instruction leaflet so it should all be fairly straightforward. I remember in 1990, sorting out the (relatively simple) wiring for the Renault V6 Turbo Engine on our very first car. I had a couple of Renault workshop manuals as a reference but I had to lock myself in the workshop with instructions on the door 'DO NOT DISTURB !!'. I turned off the radio, unplugged the phone and focused, for three days, solely on identifying the purpose, route and destination of every wire. It fired-up first time. I wonder if I can still do the same on this lot.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Ford_20Wiring_20info_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707924255" alt="" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Ford_20Wiring_20info_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707924255"></p>
<p>This is the HT setup as it was removed from the engine. Two coil packs, HT leads and a set of Door Locks and Ignition Switch that came with the new engine.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/HT_20stuff_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707924324" alt="" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/HT_20stuff_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707924324"></p>
<p>The throttle body on this engine is angled forward, to duct cold air from the front wheel arch. In the P4 it would be better coming straight out of the side of the plenum where it can be ducted to the area behind the driver's door vent. Time for some surgery.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Intake_20plenum_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707924364" alt="" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Intake_20plenum_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707924364"></p>
<p>And maybe some more surgery on the unsightly lump on the opposite side which was once the mount for the, now discarded, EGR valve.</p>
<p>It's funny how your standards and aspirations change with time. Twelve years ago I was happy to leave that part of the casting and just make a cover plate for it. Now it's got to go.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Plenum_20other_20side_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707924400" alt="" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Plenum_20other_20side_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707924400"></p>
<p>I mounted the plenum on a similar sized piece of 25mm plywood and took a careful first cut on my bandsaw.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Bandsaw_20plenum_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707924537" alt="" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Bandsaw_20plenum_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707924537"></p>
<p>Clamped on the mill, I cleaned-up the oval plenum face, square and parallel to the fins on top of the plenum - the only datum I could see.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/milling_20plenum_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707924642" alt="" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/milling_20plenum_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707924642"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Likewise with the cut-off throttle body mounting flange, removing enough material to leave a clean, flush joint ready for welding</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Milling_20plenum_20flange_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707924684" alt="" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Milling_20plenum_20flange_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707924684"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Matt reckoned we should go for the 'clean' look and remove the ribs and 'Cobra' logo from the inlet plenum. So, I started milling off the ribs, changing the cutter angle as I moved across to follow the curvature of the plenum.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/milling_20cover_20ribs_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707924762" alt="" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/milling_20cover_20ribs_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707924762"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Although the top of the plenum will be flat, the undulations along the side of the casting blend into the flat top and the milling cutter can only remove most of the ribs. I was very careful not to machine too much off. I toyed with the idea of using a belt sander to remove the bulk of what was left but I opted to file it down by hand. These three rasps did most of the work, removing material fairly quickly but with control.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;" data-mce-style="text-align: left;"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Rasps_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707924806" alt="" style="float: none;" data-mce-style="float: none;" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Rasps_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707924806"></div>
<p> </p>
<p>My little Makita D/A sander did an admirable job of taking it down a step further starting with a 50 grit disc, then 150 grit. That corroded breather union will be replaced with a brass one.</p>
<p>Now it's off for welding.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Sanding_20plenum_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707924880" alt="" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Sanding_20plenum_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707924880"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Nice job.. There's still some of the old silver coating on the casting - you can see where it's bubbled and discoloured with the heat. I'm not sure what it is, paint or powder coat so I tried some old Nitromors Varnish and Lacquer Remover that I had in the shed and it worked a treat. It's not water soluble so it had to be washed off with thinners.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Plenum_20welded_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707924921" alt="" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Plenum_20welded_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707924921"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>The weld is dressed-down and most of the 'paint' has been come off. There's still a 'cast' finish that has to be removed. With 'shaped' components like this one, the only way to smooth the curves and crevasses is by hand. Here I'm using a folded, 180 grit, D/A disc, then 240 grit, then 400 with plenty of soapy water.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Plenum_20rubbing_20down_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707924957" alt="" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Plenum_20rubbing_20down_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707924957"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Here's the latest drawing I have of the original P4 Fuel tank, dated 1999. As I recall these were made for us, ten at a time, by a local fabrication company.</p>
<p>They were made 48" long and had a capacity of twelve gallons. The first few were foam-filled but we dumped that idea in favour of two or three baffles, equally spaced, welded inside the tank.</p>
<p>The tank was designed to fit inside the passenger's side sill, supported by the side frame. At 48" long, it filled most of the sill cavity. I decided to make ours one metre long to leave space at the rear of the sill for fuel pump, filter and the ECU and Fuse Panel.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Fuel_20Tank_20DRG_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707925039" alt="" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Fuel_20Tank_20DRG_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707925039"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Here's the original template for the tank section. The figures are a rough calculation of the volume of a one-metre-long tank.</p>
<p>10 gallons - that'll do nicely. The tanks were made from a single sheet of folded 2mm aluminium with a single weld along it's length. I cut a narrow strip to test the bending allowances and to see if the job could be done on our 4ft Box and Pan Folder.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Fuel_20tank_20templates_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707925098" alt="" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Fuel_20tank_20templates_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707925098"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Yup - successfully fabricated. I marked lines across the curved section at 20mm spacing and made a small fold at each line, gradually forming the curve. I cut two pieces of our 19mm Fuel Drain hose (#FDRAIN19), split them along their length and wrapped the curved tubes of the side frame with them.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Fuel_20tanbk_20in_20frame_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707925128" alt="" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Fuel_20tanbk_20in_20frame_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707925128"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Before the end panels are welded on is a good time to set up the fuel level sender. This is our #FUSEND250 tube sender. Unfortunately it's 250mm long and can't be shortened, so, in a tank that's only 240mm deep I had to make an aluminium riser. The sender fits easily through a 38mm hole. M5 countersunk rivnuts provide secure, one-sided mounting. The curvature of the tank means that a regular fuel gauge will not show 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, accurately but it'll be good enough to know when to fill up.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/FUSEND250_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707925237"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>On the left is the inside face of the rear panel. I've drilled it at the bottom for a short piece of 12mm aluminium tube as a fuel outlet and I've shaped a length of 10mm tube for the return.</p>
<p>On the right is the outside face of the front panel. A short piece of 12mm to take a breather tube up to the filler neck and 75mm of 51mm tube for the filler hose.</p>
<p>Two, slightly smaller versions of these panels, but with the bottom corner cut off, will be tack welded inside the tank as surge baffles.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Fuel_20Tanbk_20ends_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707925272"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Nice welding by Ryan at a local engineering company - True Fusion - just up the road from us. The tube running between the tank and the chassis is the 38mm water pipe from the radiator to the engine. There is another one the other side from the engine to the radiator.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>As I progress through this build, I seem to spend more time than ever, just staring at sections of the car - pondering over pitfalls, the order of assembly, the multitude of problems and their solutions. 'Sleeping-on-it' is my preferred choice of progress these days. More often than not, the solutions appear at two o'clock in the morning as I lay awake thinking of all the thinks I planned to 'sleep-on' the day before. Here are a couple.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Tank_20Ends_20Collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707925312"></p>
<p>The gear-change cables are connected at the selector end with these little ball joints. The ones that came with the cables are tired and corroded and both spring, retaining clips are missing. Problem is, the ball diameter is 10mm and the thread on the cable end is M5 - both common sizes - but not on the same ball joint. All 10mm ball joints I could find online have M8 threads - including our own stock items. The originals must be Porsche-specific parts.</p>
<p>I drilled a piece of M8 studding and tapped it M5 then 'stud-locked' it in the joint before grinding it off flush. Sorted.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Ball_20Joint_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707925361"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>I mentioned previously that most of the plated steel bolts and plugs on the gearbox are corroded - the original oil drain plug included. I managed to find some very nice, stainless, M22 threaded plugs online. However, because I'm running this gearbox upside-down, the drain plug must be converted to a breather. I drilled through the plug, drilled out a short length of 6mm stainless rod and silver-soldered it to the plug. A short length of clear PVC hose will be a push-fit.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Breather_20plug_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707925397"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Work and other stuff has taken priority recently so I've had a few weeks away from the project but, with the fuel tank now sitting in it's cradle I've been able to take another shuftie at the coolant plumbing. A few posts ago I devised replacement pipes and hoses for the stock coolant 'bypass', at the front of the engine. I made some short stainless joiners with an air bleed and a threaded union for the temp sensors. Well, with a re-think I've changed the design.</p>
<p>As a reminder, here are the two tubes I made to fit between two 90 degree hoses at the high point of the engines cooling system......</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Top_20tubes_20finished_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707925462"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>..... and this is one of their replacements. It's our 180 degree ('U' - shaped) 32mm I.D. hose - Part no: #H18032. It will fit over the cylinder head outlet, that you can see just below the hose and there will be another one on the other head. I will be fitting our bolt-in bleed unions (Part no: #SSBLEED), to the high point on these hoses</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/H18032_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707925500"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>I marked the highest point on the hose and made a wooden former to fit inside the hose to support the hole-making inside.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Wood_20for_20SSBLEED_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707925533"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>I used a sharp 5/16" wad punch to 'twist' and cut it's way through the hose.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Hole_20for_20SSBLEED_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707925571"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>I used a piece of M5 threaded rod and a nut to draw the inside part of the fitting through the hole.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/SSBLEED_20fitting_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707925635"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Here's the finished job.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/SSBLEED_20fitted_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707925787"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>I turned two more, 3/8" NPT aluminium unions for the temp. sensors and tigged them into 45 degree, 32mm aluminium bends (Part No: #AB3245). These will fit between the top hose outlets and the 'T's' in the lower cross tube.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Bypass_20downpipe_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707925903"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>I made this cross-tube from 32mm and 38mm aluminium. It will run across the engine bay on the bottom frame between the thermostat and the radiator inlet tube</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/CROSS_20tube_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707925945"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>The 32mm tubes are tig welded before the holes are cut through. I welded an extended shank to a 28mm hole saw and on the slowest drill speed, cut through the 38mm tube.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Bypass_20cross_20pipe_20drilling_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707925979"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>The welds (by Dave at Aeon Sportscars) are very good but it doesn't hurt to check for leaks. None found, as expected.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Cross_20tube_20leak_20test_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707926016"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>I'll leave the tube ends un-beaded during the mock-up and trial and error stage. Talcum powder inside the rubber hoses makes it easy to assemble and disassemble.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Talc_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707926068"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>I'm happy now, with this set up. You can just see the bypass thermostat bottom right. I'll bead the tubes and fit hose clips later.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/BYPASS_20finished_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707926094"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>There's plenty of clearance from the pulleys and belt, easy access for maintenance and bleeding and minimum joints to leak.</p>
<p>That'll do it for this post. Not sure what's next. Thanks for reading.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/BYPASS_20finished_202_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707926146"></p>
<p> </p>]]>
    </content>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <id>https://www.carbuilder.com/blogs/p4-replica/11-chassis-finished-and-assembly-begins</id>
    <published>2021-06-16T14:38:36+01:00</published>
    <updated>2024-07-23T14:12:10+01:00</updated>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.carbuilder.com/blogs/p4-replica/11-chassis-finished-and-assembly-begins"/>
    <title>11. Chassis finished and assembly begins</title>
    <author>
      <name>Neil Foreman</name>
    </author>
    <content type="html">
      <![CDATA[<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/0038215_Chassis_20in_20No4_900_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707928299"></p>
<p>Well, I've just about exhausted the list of jobs that I can do before assembly proper begins so it's time for final chassis snagging before it goes off for blasting and powder coating. My eyesight and agility are not what they were ten years ago when we first made this chassis, so our mate Dave from AEON sportscars is coming round to finish the welding. I've been checking over and over again, marking everything that needs attention with a piece of masking tape - missing welds, lumpy welds, splatter I need to find'em all.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/chassis_20snagging_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707928328"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Our Abrasive Nylon Brush (Part No: #ARBRUSH) in my Makita drill is the perfect tool for cleaning off the surface rust around areas to be welded and these little magnetic welding clamps from Ebay hold the brake pipe brackets in position for tack welding.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Chassis_20prep_20collage_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707928376"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Here's Dave, welding the seat belt bushes and the steel floor pan, with the chassis upside-down. I'm in for a few hours' weld-dressing and splatter removal before I'm happy that it's ready.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Dave_20welding_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707928491"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>The standard, bare-metal, cast iron exhaust manifolds supplied on the engine were just bare metal finish so ten years ago I gave them a quick brush coat of exhaust paint aerosol sprayed into a lid. I made some temporary blanking plugs for the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) outlets although I previously removed all the EGR components from the engine because EGR is not required for UK emissions.</p>
<p>I have no reason to change the manifolds for four-branch tubular ones but I can tart-them-up with a Ceramic coating. It is possible to buy the 'Ceramic Paint' and apply it yourself, but the blasting, cleaning and heat-treating procedure is best left to specialist companies with the right gear.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Ford_204.8L_20maniffolds_20collage_202_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707928602"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>I can, however dress them up a bit in preparation. I've ground away all the casting numbers, high points, logos and sharp edges and I've dressed down the 'cast' texture enough to achieve a satisfactory finish.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/manifolds_20dressed_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707928643"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>.... and here's the finished item. The colour is called Mag/Silver and the Ceramic coating is said to last three years and reduce under-bonnet temperature by aroubnd 50 degrees C, although I'm not sure how. I used a local company called 'True Fusion' who offered a fair price and excellent service. Call Marco on (0)1580 714444.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Manifolds_20coated_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707928744"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>There are not many Powder-coating companies with an oven large enough for our four-metre-long chassis. The Dartford company we used for almost all of the previous fifty three cars were too busy to help us but we had a positive and friendly response from Baker Coatings in Ashford. Problem is, although the chassis can be lifted and turned by two people it's big, unwieldy and difficult to blast and coat wothout scratching, bending brackets or marking the finish. As I have in all of our company-build demonstrator cars, I politeley demand perfection in the preparation and finish and I'm willing to pay extra for it. The chassis is the key building block upon which all the other parts are mounted so perfection in this component is key to continuing perfection throughout the build.</p>
<p>It's been taking a while to get the chassis back because everyone seems busy, so I hope you'll forgive this short diversion. I've taken the opportunity to complete a few long-awaited mods to my BSA Rocket Gold Star. It's just a little younger than me and in nice, used condition - rather better than it's owner reflected in the tank.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/RGS_20low_20res_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707928787"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Oil drain-back is a common problem on many old british bikes when, after a long winter in storage, oil has drained from the oil tank, through the oil pump and collected in the sump - sometimes enough to blow gaskets and dump a slick on your drive upon start up. Anti drain-back valves are one solution, as is draining the crankcases before starting the bike after a long lay-up. The best (but most expensive) solution is a replacement oil pump. A company called SRM make a modern pump based on the original design but with much tighter machining tolerances and higher flow rate. Time will tell after next winter's storage.</p>
<p>Another upgrade is replacement of the primary drive chain, in it's permanently-leaking oil bath, with a modern belt drive. Aanother (sadly) expensive mod. but it makes a much smoother and quieter ride without the bother of a drip tray whenever the bike is in the workshop. I've kept all the original parts of course so it can be returned to standard at any time.</p>
<p>The only requirement of a belt drive is to ventilate the outer 'chaincase' cover because belt drives tend to run hot. So I scoured ebay until I found another suitable cover to modify. I know it's a bit of a sacrilege to destroy the integrity of old and rare bike parts like these but I eventually found a tatty but useable one for £90.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Belt_20drive_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707928866"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>I carefully marked and cut two 'air exit' holes around the rear of the clutch basket using a step drill for the radiused corners and drilling and filiing to remove the rest of the material. I found an old piece of very fine woven stainless mesh and cut it to shape. To secure it I had to brush up on an old skill I learned building aircraft components fifty years ago - solid riveting.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/BSA_20mesh_20inside_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707928909"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Fortunately I still have a few 'hard' and 'soft' rivets and the 'snaps' to fit them. Here's a 1/8" soft dome head rivet and it's matching 'snap'. A snap is a hardened punch, formed with the exact shape of the rivet head in the end. I'm holding it in a vice which will support and locate the rivet head while I hammer-down the other side into a shallow countersink.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/BSA_20Snap_20and_20rivet_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707928942"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Here you can see the mesh on the inside, four of the six 1/8" countersunk holes through the casing, two full length rivets, one cut-down rivet and one beaten down rivet ready to be dressed-off flush and polished. I pushed a sharp bradawl through the mesh for each hole, separating the weave enough for the rivet to pass through.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/BSA_20mesh_20rivets_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707928972"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>The finished rivets. You can just see the outline of the countersinks and the rivets dressed down into them.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/BSA_20rivets_20finished_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707929012"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>The standard BSA chain case has a dome at the front to clear the large crankshaft nut. I formed a piece of 3mm aluminium sheet to fit over the front half of the dome. I TiG welded it and dressed down the welds then cut out the front half of the dome below and fitted another piece of stainless gauze mesh.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/BSA_20Front_20vent_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707929056"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>... and her it is fitted to the bike. Not too shabby. No, where's that bloody chassis?</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/BSA_20cover_20fitted_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707929087"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Back from two wheels to four.</p>
<p>Finally got the chassis home from the Powder Coaters yesterday. It looks a pretty good job.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Chaassis_20home_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707929149"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>.... and installed on the lift in its new home. My two apprentices are raring to go. This is our first ever chassis to have Satin Black powder coat - all the others have been Gloss Black. I thought it would look a little more 'Classy' but I forgot that the set of wishbones I have ready for it are 'Gloss Black' - duuhhh. I still have a ccouple of bare metal sets so they'll have to go off for coating.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Chassis_20in_20No4_1_600x600.jpg?v=1707929281"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>TIme to seal around the edges of the steel floor-pan panels and the pedal box panel. The steel floor pan panels have only been stitch-welded underneath so there is a possibility of moisture creeping in between the welds and around the inside corners. I masked a couple of mm each side of the corners and both sides of the welds, applied a tiny fillet of Polyurethane and smeared it into the join with a finger, removing all the excess onto a rag. I removed the masking tape while the sealant was still wet leaving a neat, discreet weatherproof seam.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/sealing_20floorpan_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707929480"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Upside down on the trestles for the last time. I cut this 16g aluminium floorpan probably twelve years ago and it's been in storage ever since. It's skinned on one side but the bare metal side is remarkably uncorroded - just dusty with a few cobwebs. I cleaned it up and marked and drilled the first rivet holes in the corners to fix it's position with Clekos. I then marked around the chassis tubes and pedal box support plate, on the inside.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/CHASSIS_20back_20upside_20down_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707929511"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>This is the inner, skinned side. The corner over the pedal plate needs cutting away so here I'm using my mini angle grinder with a 1mm disc. With accurate marking and careful, patient cutting the cut edge is almost good enough.</p>
<p>Time to mark and drill for the rivets. I've talked about and demo'd this process several times over the years on our videos and in our Hints and Tips and there are many ways to do this job.</p>
<p>I measured and calculated the distance of the rows of rivets from the edge of the panel and drew pencil lines. In this picture it's 8mm and 6mm. I aim for between 40mm and 50mm spacing between the rivets so, locating my Rivet Spacer Fan over the stem of a rivet in the end holes then marked through the fan holes with a Sharpie. I loaded my Punch with a 3mm punch and die, set the depth stop to 6mm (or 8mm) and punched the row of holes. It's easy to align the tool directly over the Sharpie marks and get a dead straight line of equally spaced, clean, accurate holes. With Clekos holding the panel in place I drilled through the chassis, using the panel holes as a template.</p>
<p>A good quality, stainless Rivet Fan can be found on ebay for about £50 and a Power Punch for about £35.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Rivetting_20ali_20floorpan_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707929555"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>For the panel to sit flush I need to deburr all the holes and make a small chamfer in them - both sides of the aluminium and in the chassis - 315 operations with my drill bit in a file handle. Wrist ache after that job.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/deburring_20holes_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707929657"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Here's the prepared floorpan with sections of the skin removed where it'll make contact with the chassis. I'ver masked tightly all around the panel on the chassis so if any sealant squeezes out it'll go onto the tape. I applied a bead of our Black Polyurethane all around the rivet line on the chassis.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Floorpan_20chasis_20collage_1_600x600.jpg?v=1721739464"></div>
<p>The rivet heads will be exposed under the car so if I use regular pop rivets the this one on the right there's a chance moisture could seep through the rivets into the chassis tubes with obvious consequences. So I've used sealed rivets - on the left.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Rivets_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721739530"></p>
<p>One of my few remaining Air Tools is my trusty Riveter. I didn't take long to wizz round them all.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/RIveting_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721739569" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/RIveting_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721739569"></p>
<p>It's far easier on my old bones to cut, trim and fit the inner, side cockpit panels with the chassis on it's side. I've drilled and cleaned all the holes in preparation for the rivets but I've just Cleko'd them in position for now.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Chassis_20in_20side_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721739598" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Chassis_20in_20side_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721739598"></p>
<p>I came across this clever Bosch tool in a search for a narrow bodied drill and I couldn't resist adding it to my tool box. The regular drill chuck can be easily removed and replaced with this gear-driven offset hex drive (left) or a 90 degree angle adapter (right). I have a few hex drive drill bits, so with the offset adapter I can drill perfectly perpendicular rivet holes in the panel and chassis that are only 10mm from the edge - impossible with even the smallest body drill alone.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Bosch_20Drill_20Collage_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721739622" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Bosch_20Drill_20Collage_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721739622"></p>
<p>Although the Satin Black Powder Coated finish of the chassis seems pretty tough, it'll be more difficult to touch-up than gloss black if it gets scratched. I always clean up any swarf with my hand-held little vac as soon as I work, so I super-glued a short piece of our #TRMU1 - Rubber 'U' Channel around the end of the long nozzle to minimise scratching.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Vac_20tip_20rubber_20collage_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721739647" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Vac_20tip_20rubber_20collage_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721739647"></p>
<p>The chassis is still on it's side on the trestles and the remaining panels have been cut, trimmed, drilled and pre-fitted with Clekos. I'll make the lower mid bulkhead panels removable for access to the front of the engine if necessary. I'll use countersunk M3 rivnuts and Stainless screws to secure them later. You can see I've drilled some of the larger holes for the seat belt fixings.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Cockpit_20panels_20in_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721739674" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Cockpit_20panels_20in_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721739674"></p>
<p>I've never assembled a car in this area of our workshops, which is shared with a couple of my other toys, so my chosen range of favourite tools are not readily at hand. A sheet of ply, three magnetic tool holders and a few screws and hooks keeps them all at hand on the wall.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Tools_20on_20wall_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721739697" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Tools_20on_20wall_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721739697"></p>
<p>One of the first components to fit is the Ford Sierra Steering Rack. Matt managed to find a brand new, remanufactured one - much better quality than the originals but I needed a reminder of the mods required. Luckily I still have our workshop copy of the original Build Manual that I started writing in 1994, which told me that I needed to cut 12mm from the end of each track rod, extend the M14 x 2mm thread, 12mm further along the track rods and make 27mm-thick rack-stops to limit the rack travel and prevent the tyres rubbing on the wheel arches.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Build_20Manual_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721739864" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Build_20Manual_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721739864"></p>
<p>To avoid stripping the rack down I'll make the rack stops in two pieces to clamp around the main rack shaft. (Top Left) Here I'm turning the basic 25mm long clyinders for the stops - one at 37mm diameter and the other at 40mm diameter, both with a 25mm through hole.</p>
<p>(Top Right) I've calculate the position of the four M3 x 20mm countersunk stainless screws that will hold the two hales together. The digital readout on my Milling Machine makes it easy to accurately position the tool the correct distance from the face and the edge of the tube. Here I'm making the four counterbores with a 1/4" Slot Drill. I'll go around all four again with a centre drill, then a 2.5mm drill (M3 tapping size), then a countersink bit.</p>
<p>(Bottom Left) I'm cutting the tube in half with a 3" x 1/16" thick Slitting Saw.</p>
<p>(Bottom Right) Here's one fitted to a 25mm alumimium tube to check the fit. Perfect.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Rack_20Spacers_20Collage_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721739899" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Rack_20Spacers_20Collage_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721739899"></p>
<p>....... and her they are fitted to the rack.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Rack_20Collage_202_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721739940" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Rack_20Collage_202_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721739940"></p>
<p>I'm extending the M14 x 2mm threas by an extra 12mm before cutting 12mm from the end of the rod with my disc cutter.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Dies_20track_20rods_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721739965" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Dies_20track_20rods_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721739965"></p>
<p>The rack was supplied with nylon ties around the rack gaiters so I changed them for our Stainless Narrow Band Hose Clips. I pre-fitted the clips , marked them and cut off the excess. Neat and Tidy.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Hose_20Clip_20trimming_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721740000" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Hose_20Clip_20trimming_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721740000"></p>
<p>The steering Column that we used on all our P4s came from Rover SD1. It's neat, simple and minimalist but has adjustment up and down, forwards, backwards and is collapsible enough to comply with IVA rules. Some customers retained the ignition switch / steering lock and the stalk assembly, which plugged directly into our wiring loom. I still have one stalk assembly but not sure whether to use it yet. Watch this space. This column was a few years old when we took it from a scrapyard car and it's sat on the shelf ever since, so.....</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Column_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721740218" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Column_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721740218"></p>
<p>.... I stripped it for recon and rebuild. I've blasted and painted the yoke Red Oxide. Tube next, then clean, re-grease the bearings and reassemble.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Column_20dismantled_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721740244" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Column_20dismantled_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721740244"></p>
<p>Steering Column and Pedal Box fitted. You can see the steel section of floorpan and the row of rivets where the aluminium floorpan joins from below. I've driven out the pop rivet ssubs and dressed down the rivet ends into countersinks in the steel section, then sealed the hole through the rivets with Polyurethane</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Column_20and_20pedals_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721740270" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Column_20and_20pedals_1000_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721740270"></p>
<p>It's been such a long time since I've assembled one of these cars so I couldn't wait to mock-up one corner of the front suspension to see if it all fits as it should. Historically, we always used AVO shock absorbers but for some reason I can't recall, I had two sets of these billet alloy PROTECH units on the shelf. However, because we have shortened this chassis by 40mm and extended the top shock mounting point back to its original position their top mount needed a little modification to fit in the chassis brackets. We'll see once we are fully built how much this affects the ride height and may have to look at another option.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Front_20suspension_20prefitted_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721740296" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Front_20suspension_20prefitted_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721740296"></p>
<p>I flattened-off the spherical end and reduced the diameter of thecollar seat from 43mm to 37mm. I then made some 20mm high tapered spacers to lower the top spring seat clear of the chassis.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Front_20Shox_20mod_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721740324" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Front_20Shox_20mod_1_480x480.jpg?v=1721740324"></p>
<p>I think that'll do for this post. Thanks for reading. We're still pretty busy with CBS orders but I'll continue with the build whenever I can.</p>]]>
    </content>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <id>https://www.carbuilder.com/blogs/p4-replica/12-continuing-assembly</id>
    <published>2021-03-27T11:52:27+00:00</published>
    <updated>2024-02-26T16:51:45+00:00</updated>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.carbuilder.com/blogs/p4-replica/12-continuing-assembly"/>
    <title>12. Suspension, AirCon, Brakes, Flocking, ICE</title>
    <author>
      <name>Neil Foreman</name>
    </author>
    <content type="html">
      <![CDATA[<p>It feels strangely comfortable and familiar to be back in, what we call, our No.4 building, putting this final P4 together. My workspace is beginning to feel right - it's warm and dry with plenty of light and enough room to work all around the car. There's carpet on the floor, parts are on racks and my most-used tools are close at hand. The only thing I'm missing is my old Collie, Baz, who was my constant companion from the start of N F Auto Development through to chassis number Fifty Three - always lying somewhere near, keeping an eye on me. My current three Mutts just aren't into Cars or Helicopters and prefer the comfort of their beds in my office. No worries - I have LBC radio on my Echo Dot.</p>
<p>I'm feeling my way along this build. It sometimes feels daunting as I struggle to recall the order of assembly and the snags and short-cuts that were fresh in my brain when we finished that V12 CanAm, twelve years ago. But Matt is chipping-in with reminders and new ideas to bring the build spec. a little more up to date.</p>
<p>Fortunately, I found a few thousand of these things at the back of a shelf in my office - they're called Photographs - and they're very useful for jogging my memory.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Photos_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707926367"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Here I've trial-fitted all the wishbones, shocks and uprights with the front brakes. I have a full set of new Sierra Cosworth rear calipers and ventilated discs but Matt has new ideas for the rear brakes.</p>
<p>I've trial fitted the Rack, Fluid Reservoirs, Screen Wash Tank, Air-con Drier, Battery Tray, Horn and Radiator.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Chassis_20June_2021_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707926431"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Here's a little more detail.</p>
<p>Our twin chamber Brake Fluid Reservoir, Part No: #FLRES6 has two outlets for the tandem master cylinders and the Single Reservoir, Part No: #FLRES5 is for the clutch. IVA requires a float switch to warn of low brake fluid level but there is no such requirement for the clutch. Both reservoirs are supplied with plated steel mounting brackets but, in keeping with the aluminium theme around the pedal bulkhead, I made a single mounting bracket from 2mm Aluminium, secured with M5 Button Head bolts in Stainless M5 Rivnuts in the panel.</p>
<p>Our Aluminium Screen Washer Bottle, Part No: #VAWTANK has two mounting brackets and is fixed to the bulkhead the same way.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Reservoir_20ccollage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707926639"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Likewise, a plated steel mounting bracket is available for our Air-Con Drier but I thought aluminium would be nicer in this installation. I taped a 50mm wide strip of our 1.5mm thick Rubber sheet around the Drier and cut a 50mm strip of thin cardboard- about the thickness of a Birthday Card and folding the ends, it took a couple of attempts to mock-up the shape of a mounting bracket. Using the paper strip as a template I cut a strip - of 2mm aluminium and folded the ends with a 90 degree and a 130 degree angle. I drilled two sets of 4mm clamping holes and two 5mm mounting holes. The aluminium will bend nicely by hand most of the way around the cylinder but if it's clamped as shown here the final bending will be much easier and accurate. Two, M4 x 40mm screws, nuts and washers clamp the Drier and two M5 Button heads secure the bracket to M5 Stainless Rivnuts in the bulheaad.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Drier_20Bkt_20collage_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707926681"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Our Stainless Steel Battery Tray, Part No: #BATTY is the perfect candidate and I'll mount it with four M5 Countersunk Stainless screws through the support bars on the chassis. I'll countersink the 1.6mm Stainless Tray but for the screw heads to sit flush in the tray but I'll also have to countersink the chassis bars a little. Here, I've mixed a few drops of Two-Pack Satin Black paint to touch-in the bare metal of the drilled hole.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Paint_20Battery_20tray_20holes_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707926725"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>The bottom of the radiator sits tightly in a rubber-lined cradle on the front subframe but it needs a couple of brackets to hold it in place at the top.</p>
<p>The usual measuring, template and trial procedure led to these 3mm aluminium retaining brackets. I like to dress small parts like these - radiusing the corners and smoothing the cut edges that you can see on the centre picture below.</p>
<p>I'm just rubbing it on a sheet of 240 grit production paper on a flat aluminium block. My Scotchbrite wheel will take out all the file marks and deburrs the edges.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Rad_20clamp_20collage_201_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707926823"></p>
<p>Left Pic. I'm using our Industrial Rivnut Tool #RIVIND to set M5 stainless rivnuts in the subframe top cross-tube.</p>
<p>Centre pic. You can see the pieces of 3mm hard rubber on the chassis and 3mm sponge rubber strip (our #TRMR1) on the aluminium brackets.</p>
<p>Right pic. Here's one fitted with M5 Stainless Button Head Screws and washers.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Rad_20clamp_20collage_202_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707926890"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>A washer is a washer, right? Well a 10mm washer will have a 10mm hole but it could be any diameter, any thickness or any material. And the manufacturing process will usually leave a sharp edge on one side and a rounded edge on the other side. Our chassis has brackets on each corner for mounting a brake bulkhead union which will be the joint between copper and flexible brake pipe to the calipers. The powder coating would be easily damaged by tightening up the 3/8" unf nuts on the bracket without a washer. However, the only stainless 10mm washers I could lay my hands on were too big O.D and too thick. But, I had some thin M8 washers with just the right O.D. so I held them in the grrooves in my lathe chuck jaws and opened the hole to 3/8" with a step drill - just kissing the face with the next step on the drill to deburr the hole. I fitted them on each side of the bracket with the sharpest edges facing away from the powder coat. Nice.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Washer_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707927063"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>I guess my love affair with stainless steel goes right back to my apprenticeship - making and assembling components for Concorde, Hercules, Nimrod, Jaguar, Harrier, Vulcan and many more aircraft of the day. I'll use stainless fixings wherever practical or possible on all my projects - including most of the the 1/2" UNF suspension fixings on the P4. They're OK as supplied but will be on full display on the car so I like to spend a while dressing them up.</p>
<p>Top left shows a solid 'Scotchbrite' deburring wheel on a pedestal grinder. These wheels are very expensive but are brilliant for removing sharp edges and smoothing out machining marks.</p>
<p>Top right. Best engineering practice dictates that one and a half to two and a half threads should appear through a nut that is fully tightened. This often means choosing a longer bolt then shortening it by a few millimetres. This picture shows a bolt as supplied and one that has been turned down on the lathe.</p>
<p>Bottom. Bolt heads. Left is regular, plated steel. Centre is Stainless as supplied and Right is one that I dressed-up on the Scotchbrite wheel. There are twenty eight of them on the P4 suspension.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Bolts_20collage_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707927114"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>While working on the brakes I realised that I hadn't yet made spacers for the balance bar. The purpose of these spacers is outlined in our catalogue but is probably worth repeating here.</p>
<p>To maintain sufficient braking pressure with just one cylinder should the other fail completely, you must limit the balance bar rocking movement. This is achieved by inserting spacers between the clevises and the steel bearing tube in the brake pedal. This will 'lock' the cylinders together when the balance bar reaches a pre-determined angle - set by the spacer thickness. In this instance I made the spacers 32mm diameter x 8mm thick with a 12mm clearance hole through - but yours could be different thickness depending on the distance apart of your master cylinders. The cylinder push rods must be parallel and inline with the cylinders.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Balance_20bar_20dims_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707927203" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Balance_20bar_20dims_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707927203"></p>
<p>Bouncing around everywhere here. I fitted the AirCon under-dash unit so I decided to make and fit the upper, dash side aluminium panels so I can cut holes in them it to feed the 63mm ductiing through for the left and rright side face vents. I lined the holes with our #TRMU1, rubber 'U' channel. I made these aluminium panels from 1.5mm sheet because they will later support smaller closing panels between them and the underside of the GRP dash. They are relatively complex, three dimensional shapes so, starting with paper templates I gradually cut, trimmed, filed, annealed, beat, folded, clamped and dressed them into shape. The bottom edge isn't fixed. It just sits on the chassis tube with a strip of our #TRMU2, rubber 'U' channel between them.</p>
<p>Drilled and Cleko'd, they're ready for riveting later. No sealant required here.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/dash_20side_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707927236" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/dash_20side_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707927236"></p>
<p>The throttle cable needs to feed vertically, through the upper drivers panel, then curve down and rearward to the engine bay. I annealed the area where the cable would come through, drilled an 8mm hole then, by twisting a short length of 8mm steel rod in the hole, until it was parallel to the panel, dressing the aluminium around the rod on both sides, I formed a smooth channel for the cable.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Th_20cab_20through_20panel_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707927270" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Th_20cab_20through_20panel_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707927270"></p>
<p>The AirCon has four outlets on the front plenum - all suitable for our 63mm light weight ducting #DCTHS63. The left and right outlets are oval-shaped to minimise the depth of the plenum. These will feed butterfly type face vents on each side of the dash. In the lower picture I've cut off the two centre outlets and fitted one of our #VENT22 directly into the plenum. This will feed air into the footwell. For the screen demist I've riveted two of our #BHFLA40 flanges to a small sheet of ABS and I've bonded it to the plenum over the last outlet.</p>
<p>Our 38mm Duct Hose will fit these nicely if warmed-up in hot water for a few seconds.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Air_20coon_20plenum_20mod_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707927311" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Air_20coon_20plenum_20mod_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707927311"></p>
<p>I've chosen our #VENT18, 58mm diameter, rocking and rotating vane vents for demist at the base of the wiindscreen. Careful measuring and marking their position - equidistant fromn the centre-line of the car and clear of any chassis tubes or other components below the dash. I cut the holes, first with a 50mm hole saw then opened them up gradually with a flap wheel for a perfect fit.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Demist_20vent_20hole_20collage_201_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707927342" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Demist_20vent_20hole_20collage_201_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707927342"></p>
<p>Ta-daaa.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Vent_2018_20demist_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707927493" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Vent_2018_20demist_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707927493"></p>
<p>There is a 150mm gap below the pedal bulkhead that requires a closing panel. I made this 1.5mm thick panel that drops over the master cylinders leaving enough clearance for the hoses. I'm starting to make the cut-outs by using a 32mm hole punch to make three holes. I'll then trim out the sides of each cut-out. The panel is not structural and doesn't need sealing so I'll just fix it top and bottom with self-adhesive Velcro - our part number - VELSA. I've fitted our #TRMU1, rubber 'U' channel around the cut-outs to protect the hoses as the come through.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Closing_20panel_20collace_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707927524" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Closing_20panel_20collace_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707927524"></p>
<p>I'm using our #PSBF15 Angled Banjo union with a #PSBF11 , 3/8" Banjo Bolt on each of the master cylinder outlets. Problem is, the Banjo Bolt thread is about 1mm too long and bottoms-out at the bottom of the thread before the copper washers are tight and sealed. You could file or saw a little off the thread but here's another method if you're fortunate enough to have access to a lathe. This method will also work on any screw or bolt that needs shortening.</p>
<p>To hold the bolt in the chuck just fit a couple of nuts on the thread. for the chuck jaws to grip on. I'm aligning it with a clearance-sized drill in the fitting and a drill chuck.</p>
<p>When the hex head on the bolt is the same size as the nuts, as in this case, you can go ahead and make the cut. But if the bolt head is smaller or is a cap-head or button head bolt, you'll have a problem. Standard lathe rotation is anti-clockwise - looking into the chuck. As soon as you attempt a cut, the lathe tool will unscrew the thread from the nuts. Solution - run the chuck in reverse and take the cut from the other side like I'm doing as an example in the top right picture.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/PSBF11_20mods_20collage_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707927631" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/PSBF11_20mods_20collage_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707927631"></p>
<p>Trimming most of the cockpit - whatever form that takes, is relatively easy when the car is almost finished but but the two forward, lower footwell panels need to be fitted before I go much further with the build. My old bones aren't up to crawling head-first, upside-down in the footwell to rivet them on later. So, it's time to resurrect our old Flocking Kit, which has been stored under a bench for at least twelve years. Flocking is a brilliant way to coat dashboards, interior panels, consoles, inside hard-tops, glove boxes, instrument pods, door cards and much much more. We flocked many of our own and our customers cars' panels back in the day - even the inside of our Rotorway Helicopter cockpit. It's the process of transferring millions of 1mm-long, positively, electrically charged, nylon fibres end-on onto a negatively-charged component, that had been coated in Epoxy Adhesive.</p>
<p>Here's the two-pack Epoxy Adhesive, an old tin of black pigment to colour the adhesive, the aluminium closing panel from the front bulkhead which I've cleaned thoroughly on the inside face and masked along the overlapping edge and the Flocking 'Torch'. It has a mains-powered transformer that powers the electrostatic generator and an 'Earth' crocodile clip that attaches to the component. The tub at the end is filled with black flock and has a snap-on perforated cap which regulates the flow of flock fibres.</p>
<p>It's important to get the viscosity of the adhesive just right and to work quickly applying the adhesive evenly and flocking. Historically we used to thin the adhesive with Acetone and spray it onto the panels but with these, relatively small panels I opted for a small foam roller to apply the adhesive.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Flocking_20Kit_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707927680" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Flocking_20Kit_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707927680"></p>
<p>I made some Gaffer Tape 'handles' on the back of the panels so I could easily move them arounud whilst holding the flocking torch in the other hand. Best results are achieved holding the panel vertical and the torch horizontal.</p>
<p>Here's a close-up of the corner of one panel.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Flock_20close_20up_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707927718" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Flock_20close_20up_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707927718"></p>
<p>The three panels flocked are left to cure overnight before vacuuming off excess flock, leaving an attractive, hard-wearing surface that has the added benefits of a little sound-proofing and insulation.</p>
<p>Flocking Kits are available from www.floc-king.co.uk</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Flocked_20panels_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707927749" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Flocked_20panels_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707927749"></p>
<p>The engine can go in at any time now but it makes sense to first protect the chassis from damage. This tape is 75mm wide, low-tack PVC. It's wide enough to cover two edges of the main chassis tubes, thick enough to protect the powder coat from scuffs and scratches but it'll come off cleanly leaving no adhesive residue. At £9 a roll from Amazon it's a good insurance investment.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Taping_20Chassis_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707927792" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Taping_20Chassis_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707927792"></p>
<p>I've been flat-out finalising the layout of our new Issue 35 Catalogue for the past couple of weeks so the P4 build has taken a back seat, but I've finally found an evening to install the engine. Despite it's size and weight I managed, with the help of my mate Darrell, to drop it on the mounts with no damage to the powder coat. There's plenty of other things to do before I tackle its plumbing, exhausts, wiring and fuel but It feels like a big step forward in the build.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Engine_20fitted_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707927852" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Engine_20fitted_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707927852"></p>
<p>The plastic-handled Dip-stick was the only casualty of moviing the engine through a tight doorway. So I made a replacement aluminium handle for it.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Dip_20stick_20collage_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707927939" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Dip_20stick_20collage_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707927939"></p>
<p>The flywheel is back from a local machine shop where the new friction surface has been ground flat and parallel to the crank face.</p>
<p>I packed it well and then sent it off to CTM Engineering in Dagenham for balancing. They first balanced the flywheel alone, drilling two small holes (bottom right pic.) They then fitted the clutch pressure plate and balanced it again - this time drilling the plate (top right).</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Flywheel_20done_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707927983" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Flywheel_20done_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707927983"></p>
<p>Very busy here at CBS so, with only the odd hour here and there I'm still flitting-around, tackling which ever job comes to mind. These are the front brakes. 315mm diameter, vented discs with HiSpec, 4-pot Calipers. We bought these probably twelve years ago but they're still as new and seem ok for the build.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Front_20Brake_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707928026" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Front_20Brake_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707928026"></p>
<p>The rear brakes, however are one of the many things that I think about when I lay awake at 3am. The calipers and vented discs in the pictures below are, believe it or not, brand new Sierra Cosworth parts that have been on the shelf for the same time. They were an upgrade on the solid rear discs of the Scorpio donor of the day. Corroded plating is to be expected and is nothing that a blast and repaint can't sort out. But we're investigating an electronic handbrake option so the cable handbrake part of the caliper is not needed. HiSpec are still trading and are only an hour away in Dartford so a visit to them could be the way forward.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Rear_20brakes_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707928060" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Rear_20brakes_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707928060"></p>
<p>I can't remember why, but for some reason I didn't drill the caliper mounting holes in the rear uprights when I was machining them over a decade ago. The jigs and tooling went when we sold the P4 project to its new owner so I had to think of a way to drill them with the hubs assembled. The castings were designed to accept Ford calipers - a popular option - two 10mm mounting holes at 90mm centres. The new rear disc/caliper set up will need adapter brackets so there's no need to change the holes.</p>
<p>I rescued this ginormous old angle plate from a skip over thirty years ago and it's been rusting quietly on the floor, in a corner of the workshop ever since. I cleaned-up the important faces and clamped the uprights to it on my milling machine bed. Careful measurement, marking and checking with the machine's DRO had the holes perfectly spaced on an equal radius from the hubs centre-line.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Drilling_20r_20up_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707928122" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Drilling_20r_20up_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707928122"></p>
<p>Another job that's far easier at this stage of the build is fitting loudspeakers in the footwell side panels. It would have been even easier had I remembered to cut the holes before flocking, fitting and riveting the panels - duuuuhh. I don't really listen to music when I'm driving - just Talk Radio stations like LBC. That said, Matt will probably want to play his Little Mix and One Direction albums, so I chose these 6" JBL units that have separate tweeters that I'll mount in the dash and a cross-over. I used a huge JBL PA system during eight years with my band ' <em>The Fabulous Grandads</em>' and I've always been impressed with the sound quality of JBL products so I'm sure these will be more than adequate - even without a sub-woofer.</p>
<p>I marked a 142mm diameter cut line and drilled 3mm holes all around. I 'dragged' the drill to join up the holes then filed down to the line. I reckoned that was the easiest way to cut the hole with the panel in-situ. I fitted M4 countersunk rivnuts and mounted the units with 25mm stainless screws through the front bezel. A push-on front mesh grille finishes it off and looks good on the flocked panel. Must remember to 'dob' some black paint on the stainless screw heads.</p>
<p>Matt mentioned the existence and potential of Apple, 'CarPlay' head units which will duplicate the screen and functions of my iphone on the dash. Sounds the way to go. Watch this space.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Speaker_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707928163" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Speaker_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1707928163"></p>
<p>That'll do for this post. It's about time I got cracking on the engine.</p>]]>
    </content>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <id>https://www.carbuilder.com/blogs/p4-replica/p4-build-blog-post-no-10</id>
    <published>2021-02-05T08:01:22+00:00</published>
    <updated>2024-02-26T16:51:21+00:00</updated>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.carbuilder.com/blogs/p4-replica/p4-build-blog-post-no-10"/>
    <title>10. NACA Duct, Badge, GRP Mirror Mouldings, Hubs, Door Latches, Sliding Windows.</title>
    <author>
      <name>Neil Foreman</name>
    </author>
    <content type="html">
      <![CDATA[<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/0038214_NACA_20collage_201_900_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708090306" alt="" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/0038214_NACA_20collage_201_900_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708090306"></p>
<p>There are a few more jobs that I can do on the nose section before it goes back in the barn for a while.</p>
<p>Ferrari's 350 CanAm had a little NACA Duct in the nose. It's a nice touch that we featured on a few cars. The easiest way to make a NACA duct is to cut out the shape in your panel and bond one of our moulded ABS NACA ducts from below - for example Part No: #NACA1B, on the inside of the panel.</p>
<p>We didn't have those ABS ducts back in the day so here's how I did it.</p>
<p>TOP LEFT PIC. I used one of our #NACA1B to make a paper template the size of the duct, folding it in half and trimming it to ensure it was symmetrical. I carefully measured its position and angle then taped it in place on the nose. A quick blow of grey primer leaves a perfect cutting line when the template is removed.</p>
<p>TOP RIGHT. A 10mm, narrow saw blade in my Multi-Tool followed the cutting line accurately leaving just a 1mm wide cut. I cut the top and both sides, leaving the short, bottom edge uncut. Then, on the inside of the panel, I ground away the area around the bottom, uncut edge until it was just the thickness of the Gel-coat and one or two layers of GRP mat left. If it's thin enough the GRP will bend in a gentle curve.</p>
<p>BOTTOM LEFT. Keep checking the flexibility of the cut piece as you grind away material until you can easily insert a spacer in the open end. In this instance I used an offcut of 22mm aluminium tube but you can coose your spacer thickness to make the opening as big or small as you like.</p>
<p>BOTTOM RIGHT. On the inside, I carefully laid-up a few layers of chopped strand mat to form the sides of the duct. The lighter coloured strips are Coremat which was part of the original lay-up of the panel to increase rigidity of the large nose area. You can see where I have ground it away in places to reduce the thickness of the GRP.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/NACA_20collage_201_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708090338" alt="" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/NACA_20collage_201_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708090338"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>I've filled and dressed the sides, increased the thickness of the visible opening edge and radiused all the edges to about 1 or 2mm. The scratches look worse than they actually are and will easily disappear under a little filler-primer. That'll do for now.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/NACA_20finished_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708090373" alt="" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/NACA_20finished_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708090373"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>To Badge or not to Badge - that is the question. Back when N F Auto Development and a few other manufacturers were producing Ferrari replicas by the bucket-load there was always a lively debate to be had about the legality and moral legitimacy of putting a 'Ferrari' badge on a replica. To be fair, the same dilemma applied to owners of Cobras, GT40s, Countaches and many other marques - some of which were almost indistinguishable from the originals.</p>
<p>But the P4 was a little different. Ferrari only ever made four originals. None were ever on sale to the public, none were road cars and each one is worth many millions of pounds. So no one, with even minimal knowledge of the marque, would be fooled into thinking they were looking at a real P4 just because it had a 'Ferrari' badge on it.</p>
<p>Us (N F Auto Development) and a couple of other manufacturers were even subject to an 'Intellectual Property' scam by a company purporting to be acting on behalf of Ferrari and asking each of us for £2000 in return for not being pursued for copyright infringement. Their 'claim' against us was for displaying a prancing horse on our demonstrator. Our 'badge' was a similar prancing horse facing the other way on a red background and was, in fact the 'Kent Invicta' logo of our home county. The company disappeared into the ether wnen we asked them for a letter of authorisation from Ferrari but as I recall, the other 'scamees' paid up.</p>
<p>Morally, of course I can understand the issue with 'passing-off' a replica as a real Ferrari - and historically, it has happened with 250 GTOs but it would never happen in our world. If an owner chooses to display a Ferrari badge on his or her replica that's fine with me - fill yer boots - I can see the attraction. The long flowing nose section on the P4 screams out for a badge so who am I to argue?</p>
<p>So, here are a couple of suitable badges for the nose of our P4 replica. One is a secondhand original - about £130 from ebay and the other is a new, £20 'knock-off' - again from ebay. Any guesses?</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Ferrari_20Badges_202_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708090663" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Ferrari_20Badges_202_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708090663" data-mce-fragment="1"></p>
<p>The one on the left is the copy and the one on the right is the original. No prizes for guessing which one I'll use.</p>
<p>First step is to stick some masking tape around the target area. Then measure, measure, measure. If it's not in the right place it'll bug you for ever more. I took dimensions from the headlamp reveals to find a centre line. I scaled an online picture of a P4 nose to calculate the badge position between the nose vent and the radiator outled vent and I squared the front to back centre line from every datum around. The pencil line is the actual size of the badge. I estimated the radius of the badge corners at 3mm and drilled a 6mm hole in each corner of the rectangle, then cut the straight sides with a thin blade in my multitool. Much careful filing and trial and error later I had a hole with a radiused edge, 0.5mm bigger all round than the badge.</p>
<p>TOP RIGHT. I cut a rectangle of scrap GRP a couple of milimetres thick, drilled the two holes for the badge mounting studs, mounted the badge on it with two M4 nuts and bonded it on the inside of the nose with a bead of fibrefill all around the edge.</p>
<p>BOTTOM LEFT. With the fibrefill cured I removed the badge and made some aluminium packing pieces tofit behind the badge to bring it level with the top of the nose. More careful filling, filing and dressing gave me a neat, pleasing recess for the badge.</p>
<p>BOTTOM RIGHT. ... and here it is in grey filler primer. Can't wait for it to be red.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Badge_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708090772"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>It's probably worth taking a quick look back at our very first car, completed in 1991, at this stage. Here you can see the original, raised roof line around the mid bulkhead, the narrow roof and the full height doors - all compromises in the name of comfort and easy access for taller drivers but now corrected as you have read in previous posts. Headlamp covers, nose vents, badge, sliding windows and nose winglets too have recently been revisited in this blog.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Andre_20Mk4_201_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708090861"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>I discovered these old moulds, buried in a corner of our old paint shop. The two on the left are for making the wing mirror shrouds that you can see in the picture above. Top right is the mould for the shroud over the wiper arms at the base of the screen. Bottom right is a mould for an authentic-shaped, dash-top instrument cover that we made for one particular customer. They look a little tatty but with some work they'll all deliver at least one more pull.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Mirror_20moulds_20etc_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708090925"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>A quick blow over with PVA mould release. I found a litre of black Gel Coat on the shelf. It looked OK so...</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Mould_20release_20blue_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708090961"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>... all the moulds got a healthy layer of it.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Gel_20Coat_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708091016"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Then laid-up with three layers of chopped strand mat. None of these parts are load-bearing so that should be fine.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Laid_20up_20parts_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708091140"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>.... and here are the parts from the moulds. Not bad considering the condition of the moulds.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Mould_20pulls_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708091205"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>A detail we picked up on as we were coming to the end of producing the cars was the sharpness of some of the body creases. The left picture is of the front wing of an original, aluminium 412P. It's quite clean and defined. The crease is there on our nose panel (right) but it's not as sharp. It feathers-off at the front a few centimetres from the headlamp reveal and again where the wing meets the scuttle. The crease starts again after the doors along the rear wings of the tail section. It's a small detail that probably no one would notice but I reckon it's worth doing on this car.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Wing_20crease_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708091243"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>The nearside existing 'crease' is slightly better defined than the offside one. First job - rub doen the crease area with 400 grit abrasive to provide a key for the filler.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Front_20wing_20crease_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708091279"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>The first application of filler - 25mm each side of the crease to a maximum depth of about 3 or 4mm on the crease line.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Wing_20crease_20filled_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708091309"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Patient and careful rubbing down with my long, slightly flexible MDF sanding 'Planks' eventually found the natural height and position of the crease. Frequent 'Eyeing' along the crease ensures it's straightness and my favourite trick of closing my eyes and feeling along the ridge with the palm of my hand highlights evenn the smallest imperfections in the shape.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Wing_20crease_20painted_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708091340"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>The original, aluminium P4s all had inner wing and reinforcing panels that were riveted to the inside of the main panels. There are a few high-res pictures online that clearly show the rivet lines. Careful measuring and scaling-up from the pictures helps when marking out the hole positions on masking tape but I always check it over by eye before making any cuts or drilling any holes. ' <em>If it looks right, then it probably is right</em>' has worked well for me over the years.</p>
<p>We did this on a few of our customers cars using cut off and un-stalked 4mm aluminium dome-head pop rivets glued into 4mm holes - about 500 of them per car. The job of glueing the rivets in the holes is done after all body prep and primer work - before the final colour coat.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Nose_20rivets_20setting_20out_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708091395"></p>
<p> </p>
<p><strong>It's early March 2021</strong> and it's cold and wet outside. The chassis needs a few more hours' welding and dressing to get it ready for blasting and powder-coating, then we'll need to have a big shuffle-around in our workshops. It's easy enough to lift a P4 chassis through the door, in and out of our fabrication shop but there's no way to get a rolling car out so assembly will have to continue in another building. Problem is, that building is full up with my two bikes, the stalled Berkeley T60 project, my oid Continental plus various lifts, machines and CBS manufacturing stuff. Pulling it all out, rearranging and organising needs a day or two of fine weather and a few strong young CBS staff.</p>
<p>So, in no particular order, I'll carry on with other jobs until the weather improves.</p>
<p>When I built my first P4 waaaay back in 1990, Lee Noble's selection of the 1985-6 Granada II / Scorpio as a donor for the wheel bearings and stub axles was a wise choice. Crashed cars were beginning to appear in breakers yards and plentiful availability of parts continued throughout our manufacturing years. When the time came, eight years ago, to round-up parts for this car they were still readily available so I just bought them on ebay. A previous post details my start on preparation of them and the uprights and now seemed a good time to finish the job.</p>
<p>I completed dressing and polishing the four aluminium uprights and assembled the bearings and stub axles in the rears. Assembly of the outer bearing shells to the front uprights was fine but when I tried fitting the inner races to the front stub axle they were too small - or the shaft diameter on the stub axles was too big !!! Sure enough - Bearing I.D. 38mm - Axle diameter 40mm. Shit - what went wrong?</p>
<p>It took a while to research the evolution of the Scorpio components since we used them but it seems that the 38mm front axle diameter and taper roller bearings was a short-lived feature, lasting only for two or three years. On later vehicles the shaft diameter was increased to 40mm and a single, wide beariing was used on the fronts - they look similar, but the later versions would not fit our machined uprights. Thankfully, the rear components remained the same.</p>
<p>Sadly - another ten years on, the early, front stub axles are now as rare as Rocking Horse Poo. Two weeks' trawling the internet found only one in the whole of Europe. Feelers are out and the search continues for one more.</p>
<p>Here's an old pic of a front stub axle on the left and the two component parts of a rear, in the centre and right.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/P4_20hubs_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708091580"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>UPDATE: I joined a Scorpio Enthusiasts Facebook group and asked if anyone had any. Eventually I found three from two suppliers and bought them all. You can see the difference in the picture below. The later, incorrect one is on the left and the '86, correct version on the right. painted and ready for assembly.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Hubs_20right_20and_20Wrong_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708091627"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>This is my 1995 'drawing' for the front uprights. Machining them on our old Colchester lathe and Bridgeport Mill, in batches of forty castings - ten sets, would take me about two weeks of deep concentration with no interruptions. I think I'd struggle to do it these days.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Before and after. The raw aluminium front upright casting as it came to us from the foundry and the finished item ready for assembly.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Front_20upright_20machining_20drg_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708091664"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Here are the finished front uprights ready to fit to the suspension.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Front_20uprights_20finished_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708091714"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>I reckon it's worth the effort, polishing aluminium castings, but it's a filthy job.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Dirty_20me_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708091766"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>(Top left) Here are the two front uprights with the taper-roller bearing outer shells fitted.</p>
<p>(Top right) I'm pressing the rear bearing outer shells into a rear upright.</p>
<p>(Bottom) The two rear uprights are almost ready to go with the inner and outer stub axle components fitted. The caliper mounting holes have yet to be drilled because we're still researching rear brake options.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Upright_20collage_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708091809"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>I may as well tackle some jobs on the doors while I wait for warmer weather to arrive. I've already cut off the top three quarters of the window section which has to be re-shaped to he new body curvature and re-attached later on. The semi-gull-wing doors are double-skinned light-weight panels that have a single, adjustable hinge and a gas-ram to lift and hold the door in the open position. There is a chamfered hole that doubles as a 'door-pull' to close the door from indise and provide access to a 'pull cord' to release the latch as on very early Minis.</p>
<p>I recalled that some GRP reinforcing is required inside the door where the hinge meets the outer skin. The power of the gas rams had a tendency to slightly distort the outer skiin over time. A few extra layers of mat and resin formed into the angle inside strengthens the area. You can just see some glass strands through the round hole. Hanging the doors from a hook in the workshop roof makes the job easier.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/DOOR_20Inside_20view_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708092000"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Our customers have used many combinations of latch, lock and striker over the years but for this car, our large Bear Claw latches are a good option. Here's the plan. We won't need to lock the doors but it would be nice to have them solenoid operated with a hidden opening button inside the door air scoop. These latches have two-stage closing which complies with IVA requirements and three 9mm, through-mounting holes. Nuts, bolts and washers are an acceptable, if fiddly, fixing method, but a simple mod using slimmed-down, M6 aluminium rivnuts, pressed into the rear of each mounting hole simplifies fitting with three, countersunk M6 x 25mm screws. The threaded section of the rivnut - the first 7mm or so mut be turnd down to the I.D of the latch holes. If you don't have a lathe, just hold a short piece of M6 studding in a drill chuck, screw on the rivnut and file it down as it's rotating. The rivnut should then press into the latch and stay there tightly.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Lock_20rivnut_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708092066"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Careful measurement and gradual nibbling away with my Powerfile and a flat handfile eventually produced the perfect size opening for the striker and latch operation.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Pwrfile_20lock_20collage_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708092095"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Drilling the mounting holes from the outside is a challenge too. I measured and marked the centres as accurately as I could then drilled a 3mm hole. With the latch held in position, a torch on the inside gives an indication of the direction to 'drag' and open up the holes and countersink them. I used countersunk stainless screwcups and countersunk M6 stainless screws for a strong and relatively flush fixing.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Door_20Lock_20fitted_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708092120"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>This riveted aluminium door panel was a feature on at least one of our earlier cars. It strengthens the triangular map pocket opening when it's used to close the door from inside and it gives a racy, period look. I just need to remember how I made them.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Door_20skin2_20finished_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708092175"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Let's start with templates. Three sheets of A3 paper folded and Sellotaped to the exact shape and size required, making best use of straight edges a few millimetres back from each rounded edge. The templates are then taped directly to a sheet of 1mm thick aluminium. We're lucky to have a guillotine to cut them accurately to the exact size but you could use a jigsaw or a nibbler.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/ali_20panel_20collage_201_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708092216"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>I transferred the hole position from the template and gradually opened up the hole with a jigsaw until it was four or five millimetres smaller than required, making an allowance for the folded edge to cover the GRP edge below. I annealed the aluminium all around the edge of the hole and with the panel Cleko'd in position on the door, dressed one edge at a time, clamping a straight edge as I worked round the hole.</p>
<p>I cut two pieces of hard rubber to act as 'drifts' which will minimise damage and marking to the aluminium as I slowly dress down the edge. This is a slow job requiring a 're-anneal' or two. When the chamfered edge position has been established, the rivet positions can be marked and drilled and Clekos fitted. Rivet spacing is around 40mm, 10mm in from each edge.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/ali_20panel_20collage_202_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708092249"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>We thought we'd play around with electronic door opening on this P4 because it would ber nice not to have external release buttons.There's an ideal hiding place for a little momentary push-button switch on the inside face of the door vent - which doubles as a handle. We won't be bothering with door locks on this car as it'll never be parked-up and left in an unsafe place. So latches only.</p>
<p>Matt trawled ebay and found this 12 volt solenoid - a possible candidate to operate the door latches - and maybe, to release the tail latches too. This bundle of rods have been gathering dust in the workshop for twenty years. They're from an early Fiat Panda - the donor of choice for many P4 door latches.</p>
<p>I stripped the solenoid and modified the plunger by silver-soldering a stainless tab with a 3mm hole for the rod, to the 'pull' end of the plunger.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Door_20solenoid_20mod_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708092355"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Here's the first mock-up of the door latch parts, on the outside of the door panel directly above where they will eventually be mounted on the inside.</p>
<p>A brass electrical connector from an old consumer unit will allow easy adjustment of the rod length and lock the two rods together when the optimum length is sorted. If it's not strong enough I'll make a better one.</p>
<p>Sadly, when I connected the solenoid to a 12 volt supply it didn't have the power to operate the latch - even with no load. When the door is fitted and closed on the striker and with the added pressure of the compressed door seal all-round it'll have no chance of operating the lock.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/doopr_20latch_20parts_20outside_202_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708092407"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>I've made the hole for the actuating rod smaller with a pulled and ground-down M4 steel rivnut and I've drilled an extra 2mm hole in the latch opening cam, just below the the rod and fitted a short length of bowden cable with a sheath of black washer tubing. The other end of the bowden cable will be secured with a nut and bolt inside, at roughly the position shown above. This will be the door opening method for the driver and passenger from inside the car - just a simple tug downwards on the cable will actuate the latch and open the door - like on early Minis. However, we still have the option of an opening button inside the car for each door if we can find a safe place to put it.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Rod_20s_20and_20cable_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708092437"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>So I had a rethink and here's version two. I've used one of our lock actuators (Part No: #ACTU1). These actuators have a geared motor inside that has much more 'pulling-power'. The actuator has quite complex internal switching for locking and unlocking all doors on a vehicle but for this application we only need two wires - the Green (+12v) and Blue (-12v) to energise the plunger into 'Pull' mode.</p>
<p>Success - there's plenty of power. <strong> CHECK OUT OUR YOUTUBE CHANNEL FOR A VIDEO OF THIS</strong></p>
<p><strong><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Door_20latch_20opener_20Mk_202_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708092481"></strong></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Mounting the little switch (Part No: #PBSW6M) on the inside of the door air scoop wasn't straightforward. I had to cut an access hole through the outer skin directly above the intended switch position. This 32mm hole saw not only cut out a nice plug that can be re-bonded-in later but also drilled a pilot hole for the switch.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Door_20switch_20cut_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708092673" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Door_20switch_20cut_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708092673"></p>
<p>The pilot hole was opened to 11.2mm and tapped M12 x 0.75mm - the thread of the switch. I bonded an old switch bezel with the same thread on the inside to reinforce the thread in the fibreglass. Wires soldered to the terminals run inside the door to the actuator and on to the front of the door to exit by the hinge.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Door_20button_20collage_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708092700" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Door_20button_20collage_1000_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708092700"></p>
<p>IVA requires an opening window in the doors so, waaaayy back, we developed a sliding Perspex/Acrylic panel in two machined acrylic runners. Now, the P4s door windows are double curvature mouldings that match the beautiful, flowing shape of the cockpit, so for the sliding panels to fit nicely and slide smoothly they must be moulded and cut from the same window moulds in the exact position they will be when they're mounted in the runners.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Sliding_20window_20mock_20up_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708092727" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Sliding_20window_20mock_20up_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708092727"></p>
<p>Our perspex supplier made us a batch or runner blanks 380mm long x 15mm x 8mm thick with radiused ends and polished edges. Fortunately we had half a dozen left on the shelf. Also on the shelf, in a very sad and corroded condition, was this machining jig. A quick clean-up and wire brush made it usable for one last batch. Three runners at a time are clamped in the jig which is set square and level in our milling machine vice and an 1/8" end mill cuts 6mm deep slots along the centre of each runner with a final cut making the slot a few thou' wider than the 1/8" Perspex panel.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Window_20slider_20rail_20milling_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708092754" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Window_20slider_20rail_20milling_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708092754"></p>
<p>This drilling jig accurately places seven, 2.3mm holes along the runners (M3 tapping size), ready for mounting on the inside of the window later with M3 countersunk screws. Here, it's upside-down. The lower picture is the same jig but drilling-side-up. More later.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Runner_20drill_20jig_202_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708092779" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Runner_20drill_20jig_202_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708092779"></p>
<p>That'll do for this post. Tomorrow, the final welds and dressing will be done on the chassis then it's off for blasting and powder coating. Getting excited.</p>]]>
    </content>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <id>https://www.carbuilder.com/blogs/p4-replica/9-chassis-prep</id>
    <published>2021-01-02T11:04:17+00:00</published>
    <updated>2024-02-26T16:50:20+00:00</updated>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.carbuilder.com/blogs/p4-replica/9-chassis-prep"/>
    <title>9. Chassis Prep, Air Con choice,  Oil Pan Mods, Seat Belt Mountings, Fitting Headlamps and Headlamp Covers with Nut-plates, Nose GRP mods and prep.</title>
    <author>
      <name>Neil Foreman</name>
    </author>
    <content type="html">
      <![CDATA[<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/0037899_Sump_20collage_201_900_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708092851"></p>
<p>The engine will be moth-balled until the chassis is ready but there's one more job to do first. The standard sump projects below the chassis by about 50mm making it a prime target for speed-bumps and rutted roads - and there are plenty of those around here. Aftermarket, 5" 'Shallow Oil Pans' are available for this engine but that would still leave about 10mm below chassis level and vulnerable to damage. I scribed a 'chassis-level' line around around the sump while it was still in the chassis so I had a good idea of how much to cut off. I drained the oil and with the engine sitting vertically on the adapter plate, unbolted the sump. Before cutting anything I took careful measurements of the sump depth and the pick-up tube position to calculate the gap between them - 10mm. The pick up tube will also have to be shortened to maintain this dimension in the new, shallow sump.</p>
<p>On the left you can just make-out the line that I scribed at chassis-level around the bottom of the sump. On the right I'm cutting the sump off at that level with my mini grinder. The other visible line is 50mm from the first and this is where the new sump extension box will be welded.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Sump_20collage_201_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708092918"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Left - a nice clean cut. You can see the depression where the pick-up tube sits and the drain plug thread that will have to be relocated in the new box. The original windage tray remains spot-welded in the sump and will remain untouched. On the right I have drilled holes around the lower part of the original sump that will be inside the new extension box. Larger holes below the windage tray and smaller ones above it to keep oil circulating around the new space. The object here is to minimise frothing and turbulence so that the pick up tube always sucks un-aerated oil. I spent a couple of hours deburring all the hioles and making sure there was no swarf or grinding dust left in the crevices.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Sump_20collage_202_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708093065"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>I measured the volume of the cut-off piece of sump by filling it level with water and pouring into a measuring jug - 1.1 litres. I then calculated the size of the new sump box to add 1.3 litres to the remaining sump volume. I figured - better to have a little more oil in the sump than a little less. The dipstick oil level will of course remain the same. So, I cut a piece of 1.5mm steel sheet 400mm x 370mm. The side walls would be 55mm high so I marked and cut the corners with my mini grinder.</p>
<p>Our old Box and Pan folder still does a good job of bending the four sides into a tray. I then carefully cut the hole that would be the contact line around the original sump.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Sump_20collage_203_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708093091"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Here it is, sitting level with the cut-off original sump and with minimal clearance all-round. I gas-welded the four corners and brazed all around the join. It's been a while since I brazed anything and my eyesight isn't what it once was but I got away with it. Ten minutes in our Grit-blasting booth removed all the flux and burned powder coating. There's a little heat distortion but not around the mounting face where it bolts to the block. Not bad.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Sump_20collage_204_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708093126"></p>
<p> </p>
<p>A quick squirt of Dye-penetrant leak detector exposed a couple of pin holes so it was back under the torch then back in the blaster.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Sump_20collage_205_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708093173"></p>
<p>Time to shorten the oil pick-up tube. I put the sump back on with two bolts and as expected, the pick up projected 40mm below the sump bottom (pics 1 &amp; 2). The pick-up end of the tube has a single bolt mounting (pic 4). It is important to keep the pick up in the same position so, before cutting anything, I welded a piece of stainless angle between the tube and the bracket (pic 5). I then cut off the suction head, cut 50mm from the tube and welded the head back on. Reassembled, I achieved the required 10mm gap between the pick-up head and the bottom of the sump (pic 3).</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Pickup_20mod_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708093217"></p>
<p>Next job - the Baffle and Trap doors. With a widened sump there is an increased danger of oil surge during hard cornering with a potential loss of oil pressure. Although this P4 will primarily be a road car there's a chance it'll get the occasional spanking on a track at some time so better safe than sorry. The classic design of a Trap Door Baffle is a diamond-shaped fence around the oil pick up with hinged trap doors that all open inwards only. The theory is that oil an surge will be trapped within the diamond trough when the trap dors on the surge side are closed by the surge and the ones on the opposite side are opened allowing the oil in.</p>
<p>Picture 1 here shows the 1.5mm steel bottom panel cut-to-size for the sump. I measured and marked the position of the pick up and the outer dimensions of the diamond on the inside of the panel. There's only about 25mm clearance below the windage tray and the panel so I designed the trap doors to be 23mm high.</p>
<p>Picture 2 shows the components - 4 x 23mm long pieces of 3mm steel angle for the corners, 4 x 100mm x 22mm pieces of 1.5mm steel sheet for the trap doors, 4 x 110mm long pieces of 2mm diameter stainless rod for the hinge pins and eight M4 nuts for the hinge bearings which I later replaced with 8 x 5mm long pieces of Copper/Nickel brake pipe. The rod is a very sloppy fit in the bearings so it will never sieze even with some inevitable misalignment.</p>
<p>In picture 3 I'm silver-soldering the trap door plates to the hinge pins and the hinge bearing s to the corner pieces. This needed some careful flame control on the Oxy/Acetylene torch.</p>
<p>Picture 4 shows the blasted components assembled on the sump bottom plate. You can see that the trap doors overlap the corner pieces by a couple of milimetres.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Trap_20door_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708093309"></p>
<p>The finished assembly - tack-welded to the sump bottom panel then blasted. I'm happy with the theory and construction but I'll be keeping a close eye on the Oil Pressure Gauge. I may even fit a low pressure alarm.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Trap_20doors_20finished_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708093351"></p>
<p>It's January 6th 2021 and Winter is here with a vengeance. This area of our workshop is probably approaching eighty years old and although the new roof has 40mm thick insulation, the walls are still the old original 4" Breeze Blocks. My old bones soon let me know if it's too cold to function comfortably so some economical and efficient heating is essential.</p>
<p>We bought a couple of these brilliant 3.2 Kw, Kerosene heaters. They have a refillable, 5 litre fuel tank which just drops in through a lift-up flap and lasts all day at a cost of about £2. The 13 Amp mains plug powers only the controls and a small fan. They're very clean and safe provided you have some ventilation and are the perfect solution for us.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Heater_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708093407" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Heater_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708093407"></p>
<p>....... and a warm environment is certainly necessary for sucessful painting. The heater will warm-up a component placed in front of it and evaporate off any moisture from washes or solvent from cleaning.</p>
<p>The finished sump has been cleaned up in the blaster, thoroughly washed and given a coat of 2K primer. The little CBS spray booth (part number #BOOTH) manages to draw away the overspray, even around this relatively large component.</p>
<p>2K - or 2-Pack paint is, in my opinion, second only to Powder Coating. It's more durable and resistant to oils and solvents than any aerosol paint - and this is one component that needs a tough finish. For small painting jobs I use this little spray gun and I mix just an eggcup-full of paint.</p>
<p>In the bottom picture you can see the drain plug. I made a brass boss with a M12 x 1.5mm thread and silver soldered it as low as possible into the side wall of the sump. A magnetic drain plug and dowty washer completed the job.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Sump_20paint_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708093456" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Sump_20paint_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708093456"></p>
<p>A machete from the shed helped hack our old chassis trestles free of the undergrowth, behind the barn, where they'd almost taken root over the past decade. These simple trestles are easy to make and simple to level with either adjustable feet or packing under the feet. It's important to keep everything square and level while chassis welding and assembly is still going on.</p>
<p>Two people can flip the chasssis over on them for final dressing and welding snags and fitting the floor panels later on. Much of the body and suspension assembly can also done before it all gets too heavy for four people to lift off. Then it's back on the pneumatic/hydraulic car lift which you can see on the floor below.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Chassis_20trestles_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708093494" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Chassis_20trestles_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708093494"></p>
<p>Things don't always go to plan - yeah, I know it's hard to believe, but even I, sometimes break the rules that we advise our own customers to follow - MEASURE, MEASURE, MEASURE !!</p>
<p>Back when we were building one of these cars every few weeks we only had one Heat / Air-con unit available. It was an worked well, but these days there are several alternative options that could prove more suitable for the space available and the functions we need. I thought I'd check a few of them out. Matt sourced this all-singing, all-dancing, top specification unit with three seperate motor-controlled banks of duct outlets. He gave me the drawings to check-over but I was too excited at the brilliant control opportunities that I omitted to check the physical size. When it arrived it was just too big for the space we have available above the passenger's knees. Duuuhhhh.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Big_20AC_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708093569" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Big_20AC_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708093569"></p>
<p>I next selected this one to try - our part number #AIRCON3. It is more compact and has four 55mm diameter outlets on the plenum and 4.3 Kw heating and 3.5Kw cooling power. I could cut and weld these two angle pieces into the chassis and suspend the unit from them.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/AIRCON3_20in_20chassis_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708093605" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/AIRCON3_20in_20chassis_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708093605"></p>
<p>....... and here is the original Heat/Aircon (Part no: #AIRCON) that we supplied for most of the fifty cars we produced. It's slimmer than both the others allowing more room over the passenger's knees. Mounting is with two simple brackets welded to the dash frame. The outlet positions on the front plenumwork pretty well for the P4. The two, left and right facing outlets will be ducted to face vents on each side of the dash. One of the two central outlets will be ducted to demist vents at the base of the windscreen and the other will vent to the footwell. So, in this instance, the original is still the best choice. More about all that later.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/AIRCON_20in_20car_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708093666"></p>
<p>As I flit around the workshop I often make a mental note of another job to add to the 'to do' list - then immediately forget about it. But sometimes I'l do it there and then - like this job. Here's the old breather outlet on top of the Porsche transmission casing. The transmission is sitting right-way-up on the bench right now but it will be installed, inverted in the car so this will now be the oil drain. I enlarged the thread from M12 to 1/4" NPT so that I could use a brass blanking plug. Swarf inside the box would be bad news so I filled the tap flutes with grease to trap and retain the swarf as I cut the thread, removing the tap, cleaning it off and re-greasing it every few turns.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Gbox_20drain_20plug_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708093693" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Gbox_20drain_20plug_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708093693"></p>
<p>All of the P4 chassis' we manufactured featured full, IVA-compliant mountings for full four-point racing harnesses. That is, 7/16" UNF threaded bushes welded through the chassis tubes at the specified height and locations. Harnesses are fine and are required for racing and competition but, in truth, they can be a pain in the arse and a little over-the-top for touring and the odd pleasure drive to a show or club meet. Simple lap -and-shoulder retractable seat belts are perfectly adequate for our car but the existing, full harness mounting points are not ideally positioned so we need to add more bushes.</p>
<p>I made these from 19mm diameter, mild steel bushes, turned down to 16mm except for a 3mm shoulder at one end with the 7/16" UNF thread all the way through. They fit through a 16mm diameter hole in the chassis from the back and are welded on both sides.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Harness_20bushes_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708093743" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Harness_20bushes_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708093743"></p>
<p>It's critical to drill the 16mm hole square through both sides of the tube but it's not easy to hold your drill, freehand, perfectly square. You may have a trusted assistant to 'eye' the drill 'up' or 'down' but if you're on your own try this tip. I made a nylon guide bush for a 6mm pilot drill. It's easy to see of the bush is sitting flush to the tube whilst you drill right through both sides. You can then open the hole to 16mm wwith a step drill from each side.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Drilling_20frame_20sqquare_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708093770" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Drilling_20frame_20sqquare_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708093770"></p>
<p>(Left) Here's a new, unwelded bush for the lap and shoulder belt next to an existing welded bush for the 4 point harness mounting. In the right picture is a 3mm plate tacked in the centre spine with a welded bush on each side and on the right an unwelded bush on the lower frame rail for the retractor mechanism mounting.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Seat_20Belt_20mounbts_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708093822" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Seat_20Belt_20mounbts_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708093822"></p>
<p>Here's the belt fitted.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Seat_20Belt_20installed_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708093854" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Seat_20Belt_20installed_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708093854"></p>
<p>Here are the two finished seat frames. I considered making the passenger's seat non-adjustable but there is some valuable luggage space behind the seats which is more easily accessible if both seats can slide forward. I've begun to peel off the old leather trim around the edge of the seats so that I can clean off the adhesive from the back. I'll leave them trimmed so our trimmer can use the existing leather as a pattern for the new covering. In the bottom right of the picture you can just see a threaded bush in the side of the fibreglass shell. This was a seat belt mounting in the original Lotus. It was obviously legal at the time but I'm not sure it would comply with the latest IVA rules which require fixings in the steel frame of the vehicle. Hmmm.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Seat_20Frames_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708093917" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Seat_20Frames_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708093917"></p>
<p>Taking a break from the chassis stuff whilst I wait for my old Mucker, Ray to pop round and finish off the welding. So, I thought I'd bring in the nose section to make a start on prepping it. It's been kept clean and dry and well supported for the last ten years so, apart from being a little dusty, it's pretty-much how it arrived from our moulders. It's quite a complex, multi-part assembly with headlamp nacelles, bulkhead panels, returns, lower scuttle and core-mat reinforcement in the important places. Like the other panels surface finish quality is very good but some over-zealous trimming has left some returns a few milimetres short.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Nose_20start_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708093945" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Nose_20start_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708093945"></p>
<p>The headlamp nacelles are separate, bonded-in, moundings for one 7" and one 5 3/4" headlamp on each side.</p>
<p>The following details apply to pretty-much all headlamp mountings in glassfibre panels.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Headlamp_20nacelle_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708094412" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Headlamp_20nacelle_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708094412"></p>
<p>(Top left pic) I made some cardboard templates of the exact diameter of the 7" and 5 3/4" nests marked with the centre point and the hole size. It's quite easy to centralise the templates in the moulding then drill the centre hole through the GRP. You can just see two 2mm drills in the centre of the templates holding them in position.</p>
<p>(Top right pic) I've cut the top hole and pre-fitted in the 7" bowl. I'm using a CBS Circle Cutter - part no: #CIRCUT to cut the lower hole. This job isn't easy free-hand. I sharpened the carbide tip of the cutter to a point and controlling the speed on my Makita drill to the slowest possible rotation on the trigger it's possible to slowly and carefully cut the perfect circle. Hold the drill tightly with both hands - the torque available in these tools can easily damage your wrist if the tool locks-up. It'll be very difficult to hold the drill in one position until the cut is complete so change the angle of the drill slowly and gradually scrape away around the full circle. If the circle becomes partially cut right through and loose, don't be tempted to complete the cut with the drill. Use a ground-down hacksaw blade to finish the remainder of the cut.</p>
<p>(Bottom left pic) The glass lamp unit can of course be mounted in any position within the rim but in the P4 installation it's important to ensure access to the adjusting screws and the single fixing screw on the rim. Here I'm using a six foot spirit level across the top of the nose section and an extended set-square to align the nest so the the adjusting screws operate correctly for horizontal and vertical addjustment of the lamp. You can easily spot-through the ffixing holes at this stage.</p>
<p>(Botton right pic.) Both nests pre-fitted.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Headlamp_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708094463" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Headlamp_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708094463"></p>
<p>Here are a few more shots of the procedure.</p>
<p>(Top left pic.) I glued a sheet of 80 grit abrasive paper around a short length of 63mm Aluminium tube to dress the hole edges.</p>
<p>(Top right pic.) M4 aluminium countersunk rivnuts - 4 per nest.</p>
<p>(Bottom left pic.) Sometimes, when drilling holes near the edges of panels with a battery drill it's difficult to get the drill perpendicular. I made a few extended-shaft drills by silver-soldering them into a length of 5/16" steel Bundy tubing.</p>
<p>(Bottom right pic.) A 4mm - 32mm step drill in a 12mm extension tube, a Carbide countersink in Bundy and a 3mm to 12mm step drill in Bundy.</p>
<p><img alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Headlamp_20collage_202_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708094543"></p>
<p>I'll be using LED headlamps from our CBS range so I tried a couple to see how they look. The top one is part number #LEDHL7 in a full 7" nest with a black rim.</p>
<p>Bottom is part number #LEDHL534 - a Main, Dip and Side, 5 3/4" LED headlamp in a full nest with chrome rim.</p>
<p>I think I'll go for both black rims but, at the moment, 5 3/4" rims aren't available in black so I'll blast the chrome ones and paint them 2K Satin Black.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/LED_20headlamps_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708094647" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/LED_20headlamps_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708094647"></p>
<p>The P4 has beautiful, moulded, 3mm thick, clear acrylic headlamp covers that perfectly match the contours of the body. They are designed to sit flush in a matching reveal, 3mm deep x 15mm wide, moulded into the nose section. However, the covers are supplied trimmed slightly oversize and the depth of the reveal varies slightly. Here's how I get them to fit perfectly.</p>
<p>(Top left pic) First thing is to protect the surface of the cover from scratches with low-tack decorators masking tape leaving a clear view of the reveal around the edge. I carefully move the cover around until I find the optimum position over the reveal then hold it there with strips of regular masking tape.</p>
<p>(Top right pic) While the cover is still taped in position I marked the cutting line with masking tape - it's usually just a millimetre or two at the most. My mini disc sander is great for accurate and delicate removal of most of the material. A 150 grit sanding block will even-out the curve and bevel the inside edge. Then working down thhrough the grades of Wet &amp; Dry abrasive paper to 1000 grit and 'T' Cut will polish the edge.</p>
<p>(Bottom left pic) In a perfect world the reveal would be exactly 3mm deep all round and angled for the cover to touch perfectly flush all-round. Our moundings were always pretty good but there are some areas of the reveal that are a little deeper than 3mm and sometimes a little less or more than 15mm wide. To deal with the low areas I apply sellotape around the inside face of the cover, folding it around the edge to the top. I smear a small amount of filler over the low areas then gently press and hold the cover in position, flush with the body for a few minutes until the filler cures. Filler will not stick to the sellotape which can then be removed.</p>
<p>(Bottom right) The filled areas can be dressed and feathered.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Headlamp_20collage_203_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708094693" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Headlamp_20collage_203_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708094693"></p>
<p>There may be sections of the reveal that are less than the optimum 15mm wide. To achieve even spacing of the nutplate fixings these sections must be rebuilt and extended. I feathered the edge of the reveal inside and out with my mini sander then built up the edge with Fibrefill. It doesn't have to be done in one application but can be built up in layers.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Fibrefill_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708094747" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Fibrefill_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708094747"></p>
<p>Here you can see one countersunk hole in the cover. I'm blocking the edge to make a chamfer on the inside edge and a small radius on the outside edge.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Dressing_20edge_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708094775" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Dressing_20edge_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708094775"></p>
<p>I'm using M3 steel nutplates mounted on the inside of the reveal to secure the cover. Nutplates are aircraft specification products - small and strong with an in-built locking feature so the screw doesnt come loose.</p>
<p>(Left pic) I've marked the screw hole positions on the cover and I made an aluminium drilling guide to help me keep the drill perpendicular. I'm using a 2.9mm drill - the actual diameter of an M3 screw. This will keep all the hole positions accurate. I t can be opened up to 3mm or 3.2 later.</p>
<p>(Top right pic) I've made a drilling guide for the fixing holes by fitting a 20mm M3 screw the wrong way right through a nutplate and through the reveal, tightening it with a nut on the inside. I then drilled through the two holes with a 2.4mm (3/32") drill for the rivets.</p>
<p>(Bottom right pic) I've removed the guide nutplate and I countersunk the two rivet holes underflush so that I can fill over the rivet heads later. 6mm long x 3/32" countersunk aluminium rivets are fine.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Nutplate_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708094803" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Nutplate_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708094803"></p>
<p>There are IVA rules for the indicator lamps on a vehicle - including height above the road surface, distance from the side of the vehicle and angles of view for other road users. Fortunately, the indicator position on the original P4s is pretty spot on. There are several choices of lamp available from our range but I thought I'd try these stalk indicators (Part no: #SI024). They're quite discreet at only 50mm diameter but they pack the full 21 watt lighting punch required. Positioning is quite important - to achieve the veiewing angles and still keep them just clear of the Acrylic headlamp cover. I removed the original stalk from the lamps and made two shorter, hollow stalks from M8 stainless studding.</p>
<p>I carefully Powerfiled a cut-out which allows them to blend in better with the moulding.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Indicator_20collage_201_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708094844" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Indicator_20collage_201_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708094844"></p>
<p>I covered the indicator shells with sellotape and taped them firmly in position in their cutouts. With the whole nose section turned over I glassed over the bottom of the shells on the insside of the headlamp nacelle (left pic).</p>
<p>Back over the right way up again, the Sellotape mad it easy to remove the shells leaving a perfectly shaped scallop in the panel. I drilled the mounting / wiring hole and smoothed out the edges with a smear of filler then a splash of primer.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Indicator_20collage_202_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708094908" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Indicator_20collage_202_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708094908"></p>
<p>Just checking that there's clearance between the clver and indicator lens. Sorted.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Indicator_20under_20cover_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708094955" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Indicator_20under_20cover_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708094955"></p>
<p>Of the four original P4s made by Ferrari in 1967 only thirteen still exist - wink wink!! Some of the 'new' P4s are converted P3s and some were 412Ps and some are 'Bitsas' but they were all hand made and are all slightly different. Here's a selection of different nose vent shapes. To my eye, at least, some are more pleasing than others. Check out the little Winglet spoilers too.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/P4_20nose_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708094993" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/P4_20nose_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708094993"></p>
<p>... and here is ours. I'm generally quite happy with the shape but our original bucks were of course hand-made, so neither they or the panels moulded from them are perfectly symmetrical. When I cast my eye over a shape as flowing and beautiful as the P4, imperfections and anomalies stick out like a sore thumb. If I fail to create a form that is not 100% pleasing to my eye and I decide to leave it and not bother to correct it then that defect is the first and only thing I see whenever I look at the car. I've done that and regretted it several times in the early days.</p>
<p>So, time spent measuring, fettling, enhancing, stepping back and looking - without rose-tinted spectacles, is time well spent - especially on this iconic area of this iconic car.</p>
<p>Moulding deep returns like these on the inside vent edges is a difficult achieve in GRP. All returns have been made as deep as reasonable possible and all have been trimmed - but not very evenly. I plan to extend the returns, add the two small vents and a vertical splitter in the centre. Masking tape helps with marking-out.</p>
<p>(Bottom left) I decided to extend the bottom (smiley) return first so I feathered the top and bottom edges, made aluminium formers for the inside and 'Cleko'd' them in position.</p>
<p>(Bottom right) Fibrefill is brilliant for this job - building up the edge and extending it by about 15mm.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/nose_20return_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708095025" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/nose_20return_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708095025"></p>
<p>The left and right vents have returns that are also very short. On the original cars these vents were ducted to the front brakes for cooling. Not sure if we'll need that but I'd like to see them a little deeper so I made some extensions from a 50mm wide strip of 1.5mm aluminium.</p>
<p>(Bottom left) I formed them slightly oversize and bonded them on the inside with filler.</p>
<p>(Right) I then blended them flush with filler. You can also see in this picture the extended lower return on the main opening - filled and rubbed down. I countersunk all the Cleko holes and filled them too.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Nose_20vent_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708095055" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Nose_20vent_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708095055"></p>
<p>The two slotted vents on the upper nose edge is a nice feature so I fabricated two oval formers from a 25mmmm wide strip of 1.5mm aluminium around a piece of 15mm tube. I used a Joddler to form the stepped overlap and riveted the join. I punched out the rivet stems and dressed down the inside of the rivet.</p>
<p>I marked the cut-outs in the nose and cut them out with a step drill and files. I held the vents in position with some Gaffer tape while bonding them on the inside with filler.</p>
<p>IVA rules state: '<em>Grills, gaps, slots, grooves, channels, recesses and holes that have a width of 10mm or less as determined by the contact points of a 100mm sphere must be blunted</em>' and '<em>Grills, gaps, slots, grooves, channels, recesses and holes which have a width of more than 10mm and up to 25mm determined by the contact points of a 100mm sphere must have a radius of curvature of at least 0.5mm</em>'.</p>
<p>0.5mm radius is is then.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/small_20nose_20vent_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708095085" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/small_20nose_20vent_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708095085"></p>
<p>Likewise, I think the splitter is also a nice feature. I cut two 3mm thick pieces from an old GRP panel and bonded them back to back with Fibrefill to make a gel-coated strip 8mm thick x 50mm wide. Our belt linisher made a nice job of dressing it with a full radius on both long edges. I cut a 15mm deep location notch in the centre of the top and bottom nose returns and bonded the splitter in with Fibrefill.</p>
<p>The bottom picture shows the inside of the nose before final finishing. You may be able to see here, two repairs either side of the splitter, where I'd previously fitted the two small slotted vents. Cock-up. I wasn't happy with the size, shape and position I'd chosen so I took them out and glassed over the holes.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Splitter_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708095176" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Splitter_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708095176"></p>
<p>Here are a few sanding tools that I made for these jobs. Years ago, I bought a job-lot of self-adhesive, 150mm sanding discs between 40 and 400 grit, at a show. I wrap them around different diameters of aluminium tube and stick them on strips of 6mm or 8mm MDF which will form to shallow curves - perfect for finishing large curved panels.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Sanding_20blocks_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708095260" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Sanding_20blocks_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708095260"></p>
<p>Our Compact Narrow Belt Sander (Part no: #PWRF2) has a much smaller body than my Powerfile so is ideal for getting into tight spaces - like here, inside the nose where I'm dressing the fillet of filler that holds the vent extensions in place. I've fitted a cut-down, 35mm ID, 90 degree rubber hose (Part no: #H9035) onto the dust extraction nozzle. I taped it to the handle for stability and pushed my vacuum nozzle directly into the hose. You can adjust the angle of the belt to the body of the tool. Works pretty well too.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/PWRF2_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708095486" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/PWRF2_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708095486"></p>
<p>I can vaguely recall, almost thirty years ago making the first pair of Nose Winglets. I wanted them to be GRP, gel-coated top and bottom which meant making them in a two-piece mould. They had to be perfectly shaped to fit the curve on the nose in exactly the same position on both sides, at exactly the same angle, so when I dusted-off this old pair in our store-room I was relieved to discover that I'd done a pretty good job.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Each winglet will only sit niceley against the compound curvature of the nose if it is in exactly the right place - within just a few millimetres. Sliding and rocking it around I soon found the 'sweet spot'.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Winglet_201_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708095538" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Winglet_201_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708095538"></p>
<p>Each winglet is mounted to the nose with five M6, Stainless Cap head screws and countersunk aluminium rivnuts in the body so it's important that the holes are all perpendicular to the body curvature. Sitting the winglet square on a small block of wood when each hole is drilled works fine. This counterbore drill makes a nice seat for the screw head.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Winglet_20drill_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708095566" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Winglet_20drill_20collage_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708095566"></p>
<p>Any minor mismatch in the curvature of the winglet and the nose can be corrected by sticking a strip of 2" Sellotape on the body, applying a few blobs of wet filler on the winglet where the offending gaps are and gently tightening the screws.</p>
<p>You can see that the surface finish of the winglets is pretty good. Just a little prep and filler primer needed on the edges.</p>
<p>These winglets are about 8mm thick so fulfil the IVA requirements for a 2,5mm radius on exterior projections.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Winglet_203_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708095701" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Winglet_203_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708095701"></p>
<p>This is our little Airbrush Kit (Part no: #ABKIT). It has a mains powered mini compressor and a beautifully made air brush with six feet of very flexible hose and a 7cc paint cup. Air pressure is quite low so there's very little overspray which makes it ideal for accurately blowing-in small, prepped areas inside your workshop. It's sometimes surprising how many little imperfections show up with a uniform coat of primer/filler. A great investment at fifty quid.</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/ABKIT_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708095735" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/ABKIT_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708095735"></p>
<p>.... and here's the sum of work on the nose so far. You can see the two new, repositioned, slottted nose vents, the splitter, the extended larger vents either side, the indicator scallops and the finished headlamp cover reveals. I used just a few cc's of Grey 2K filler primer</p>
<p> <img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/nose_20prepped_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708095762" alt="" data-mce-fragment="1" data-mce-src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/nose_20prepped_1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1708095762"></p>
<p>That's about it for this post. Thanks for reading.</p>]]>
    </content>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <id>https://www.carbuilder.com/blogs/p4-replica/7-berkeley-t60-build-front-suspension</id>
    <published>2019-01-28T09:04:53+00:00</published>
    <updated>2024-08-07T13:13:08+01:00</updated>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.carbuilder.com/blogs/p4-replica/7-berkeley-t60-build-front-suspension"/>
    <title>7. Front Suspension</title>
    <author>
      <name>Neil Foreman</name>
    </author>
    <content type="html">
      <![CDATA[<p>The front suspension on this Berkeley is from a Mk1 Mini - as is the subframe. Although it has been pre-assembled, it looks remarkably original and un-messed-with. The rubbers have all seen better days and the bearings and seals feel tired but it's all rust-free and seems perfectly usable. That said - I've never owned nor can I recall even working on a Mini so this is all new to me.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Susp_NS_480x480.jpg?v=1723031630" alt="" style="float: none;"></div>
<p><br>First thing to do is strip it and dip the painted parts in a bath of Gun Wash thinners to strip off the old paint. There's about half a gallon in this plastic storage box. It's enough to cover these parts and I can close the lids to minimise evaporation and leave it outside under cover.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/gunwash_dip_480x480.jpg?v=1723031532" alt="" style="float: none;"></div>
<p><br>The Mini was, of course, a front wheel drive car with driveshafts and CV joints. But we're driving just the single rear wheel on the Berkeley so the 'cup' end of this stub axle is unused and just excess weight.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/stub_axle_480x480.jpg?v=1723031628" alt="" style="float: none;"></div>
<p>It's surprising how quickly a 1mm thick cutting disc on my Makita 18 Volt angle grinder can cut through this hefty chunk of toughened steel - cleanly too.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/stub_axle_mod_480x480.jpg?v=1723031631" alt="" style="float: none;"></div>
<p>It's all in pretty good condition for it's 50+ years but it's been treated to some dodgy paint which will all have to come off. Perhaps surprisingly, all these parts and spares for them are readily available and inexpensive so it makes sense to recondition it all anyway. I'm going to do one side at a time. The rusty stand-off pillar in the bottom right picture is a new mount for a smaller shock absorber. The top shock mount is welded on to the subframe turret.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/susp_parts_480x480.jpg?v=1723031631" alt="" style="float: none;"></div>
<p><br>Everything gets a grit-blasting in our large booth before masking and painting. I'm using our brilliant little CBS Paint Booth for a coat of Red Oxide Primer then two or three coats of VHT Gloss Black Caliper Paint - both aerosols. I regularly replace the filter element in the booth with some 'Cooker Hood' filter sheet bought from ebay for a couple of quid.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/spray_booth_480x480.jpg?v=1723031628" alt="" style="float: none;"></div>
<p>A few years ago, when UK engineering firms were collapsing at a frightening rate, you could find fly presses in their scrap skips or buy them for their scrap metal value. We have three in our workshop and they still come in handy now and again. I'm fitting new bearings here.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/fly_press_480x480.jpg?v=1723031531" alt="" style="float: none;"></div>
<p>Assembly time with new cylinders and shoes. It's all pretty basic but Google and YouTube are brilliant sources of information to make sure I get the orientation of all the parts correct and don't do anything silly. All the components, old and new, have their own cut-down milk carton storage tub on my bench top.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/hub_on_bench_480x480.jpg?v=1723031537" alt="" style="float: none;"></div>
<p>CBS have in stock several pipe flaring tools - some hand-held and some bench-top. This one is our 'Professional Pipe Flaring Tool' Part No: #PROFLARE. Here it's fitted with tools for 3/16" pipe but all other size tooling is available. I'm making the copper link pipe for the front master cylinders.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Flaring_Brake_pipe_480x480.jpg?v=1723031531" alt="" style="float: none;"></div>
<p>New Ball Joints, new cylinders, new bearings, new shoes and even new grease nipples. I've painted the cut end of the stub axle where the CV cup was. Looks quite neat.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/front_hub_done_480x480.jpg?v=1723031533" alt="" style="float: none;"></div>
<p><br>The lower arm all finished with new needle rollers and shaft with stainless nuts and washers. I've made aluminium stand-offs for the lower shock mount to replace the rusty steel ones (bottom right). The aluminium cone is a replacement part that allows ride height adjustment which could be handy because, although the geometry is pretty standard the vehicle's weight and suspension loading is much less than the original Mini.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/lower_arm_done_480x480.jpg?v=1723031624" alt="" style="float: none;"></div>
<p><br>The rack and steering column are from a Fiat Cinquecento. The ball joints are new and the rack feels in good order. I've masked and blasted it all ready for Red Oxide and Black paint. The front track width of the Berk is slightly wider than the Cinquecento so these 'track rod extenders', screwed into the track rod ends will widen it by about 25mm each side.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/rack_prep_480x480.jpg?v=1723031614" alt="" style="float: none;"></div>
<p>Here are the freshly-blasted offside suspension parts. They will have a coat of Red Oxide aerosol primer but for demonstration and comparison I'll use a different sort of paint for the top coat.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/blasted_parts_480x480.jpg?v=1723031535" alt="" style="float: none;"></div>
<p>These are the component parts of 2-pack paint (usually called 2K) I bought 1.5 litres of gloss black on ebay for £23. That's a one litre can of colour base coat, half a litre of hardener plus a gallon of thinners. I also bought some measuring cups, but for small quantity mixes, I find the scales easier. 2-pack was once the paint of choice for body shops and even manufacturers but it is Cyanoacrylate-based and very hazardous to use without the right equipment. It's still available for hobby use and small body shops but water-based, oven cured paints are the legal norm for big users these days. It's important to have effective extraction and at least a Carbon Filter breathing mask but the benefits of two-pack can vastly outweigh the downside. The paint is mixed 2:1 with the hardener and 10% thinners is required so there's a high proportion of solids and coverage is excellent. Also, because of its chemical curing two-pack is much tougher than other paints and more resistant to thinners and other solvents.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/2pack_kit_480x480.jpg?v=1723031530" alt="" style="float: none;"></div>
<p>This small spray gun cost about £15 at a recent show - amazing value for money. It has all the design features of guns costing many times the price and works brilliantly on these small components. It's pretty cold outside this January so I have my Kerosene heater on in the workshop and warm up the components before painting in my little CBS spray booth.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/spray_gun_480x480.jpg?v=1723031631" alt="" style="float: none;"></div>
<p>This is the Fiat rack and the finish is superb.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Rack_painted_480x480.jpg?v=1723031621" alt="" style="float: none;"></div>
<p>A couple of new rubbers from ebay smartens-up the pedals.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Pedal_rubbers_480x480.jpg?v=1723031612" alt="" style="float: none;"></div>
<p>Here's the off-side suspension - back together and looking smart with stainless fasteners where appropriate. I've used our POR15 Bed Liner Coating on the inner wings and stippled it with a brush as it was drying. Very smart.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/SUSP_OS_480x480.jpg?v=1723031631" alt="" style="float: none;"></div>
<p>The Fiat lower steering column was too short for the Berkeley installation so it was extended by 100mm or so with a strong welded sleeve.</p>
<p><img border="0" width="100%" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Lower_column.jpg?v=1723031601"></p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/lower_20column_20join_1_480x480.jpg?v=1723029213" alt="" style="float: none;"></div>
<p><br>The upper column is OK as standard but we have to mount a steering wheel to it. On the left is a bare, cast aluminium steering wheel hub and a modified CBS #SSADAPT1 adapter plate. You can see that I have machined out the centre of the #SSADAPT1 and made a shallow counterbore to locate the hub flange. Read on to see how to do it.</p>
<p><img border="0" width="100%" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Hub_20and_20upper_20column_1.jpg?v=1723029203"></p>
<p><br><br>You could make a simple adapter plate from a disc of 3mm or 4mm aluminium, jig-saw'd from a sheet and drilled by hand, but if you have a lathe or know someone who does, it's a fairly simple turning job to modify our #SSADAPT1.</p>
<p><img border="0" width="100%" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/SSADAPT1_in_lathe.jpg?v=1723031631"></p>
<p>Here, on the right is the bored-out #SSADAPT1. The adapter plates are supplied with a black anodised finish, which I have removed from the exposed face with 400 grit Wet &amp; Dry then polished the bare aluminium. The hub, on the left has two sets of six M5 tapped holes. SIx on a 70mm PCD and six on a 74mm PCD. I clamped the adapter plate concentric to the hub and spot drilled through the six, 74mm PCD holes. I then drilled and countersunk holes through the plate to mount it to the hub with M5 countersunk stainless screws.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Steering_20hub_20and_20adapter_1.jpg?v=1723029191"></div>
<p><br>This picture shows our #WRSW13, Wood Rim Steering Wheel mounted on the adapter plate which is mounted on the boss. You can see here a similar boss as supplied, with it's plastic shroud and slip ring horn connection - both of which can be removed. I'll have a simple horn push button on the dash and I'll sort out a suitable centre for the wheel later.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Berek_20st_20wheel_20low_20res_1_480x480.jpg?v=1723029131"></div>
<p>Seems like a good time to line the engine bay with our 'Heatmat'. Heatmat (part number #HTMAT) is a 1.5mm thick, woven ceramic cloth with an aluminium skin that has several functions. The cloth acts as an insulating barrier whilst the aluminium reflects heat. Heatmat also has a damping effect on large panels, reducing drumming and sound transmission. It also looks quite smart.</p>
<p>First step is to make templates. I use A3 sheets of heavy paper, cut and taped together. The more accurate you make your templates the neater the end job.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Inner_20wing_20template_1_480x480.jpg?v=1723029124"></div>
<p>Here are the three templates - left and right inner wings and pedal bulkhead.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Inner_20wing_20patterns_1_480x480.jpg?v=1723029118"></div>
<p>I taped the templates to the Heatmat making sure that the weave 'grain' of the fabric runs in the same direction for all panels. A sharp knife and straight edge make a neat job of cutting the shape.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Patterns_20on_20heatmat_1_480x480.jpg?v=1723029112"></div>
<p>Our #ADHCON is a high temperature contact adhesive that is ideal for gluing Heatmat to engine bays. The Heatmat must first be primed with a well-rubbed-in coat of adhesive. Let it dry completely.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/priming_20heatmat_1_480x480.jpg?v=1723029105"></div>
<p>Here you can see that I've masked nearby subframe areas before brushing adhesive directly onto the panel. The Heatmat must also have another coat of adhesive and both left to 'touch dry' for an hour or so before applying to the panel. The pedal bulkhead is finished here.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Heatmat_20glue_20masking_1_480x480.jpg?v=1723029100"></div>
<p><br>Take great care to position the Heatmat accurately on the panel before using a wallpaper roller to press it firmly in place. Heatmat will form around gentle curves as you can see on the shallow depression in the aluminium panel behind the roller.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Heatmat_20roller_1_480x480.jpg?v=1723029094"></div>
<p> I sorted out the bonnet hinges in a previous post, so while the engine bay is empty and the car is up in the air it's the ideal time to fit a bonnet stay and bonnet latch.</p>
<p>CBS stock a small and large bonnet stay - the bottom two in this picture. They both offer strong, one-handed operation with a fixed, maximum length and a mechanical, automatic-releasing latch. Heavy bonnets may need one, or maybe two of the large ones but the small, lightweight Berkeley bonnet only needs one small one. The brushed stainless one at the top of the picture has been in a drawer in our workshop for almost twenty years - just waiting for the right job - and this is it.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/BNSTYs_1_480x480.jpg?v=1723029052"></div>
<p><br>The way the bonnet now works with it's hidden hinges means that it has a maximum opening angle before the lower bonnet edge rubs on the nose area, so it's important to measure the angle accurately and mount the bonnet stay so that it limits the bonnet opening to that angle. I'm using a vernier protractor here but any angle finder should be good enough. I've propped the bonnet open at the maximum angle with a piece of wood. Note that both the bonnet and it's surround are slightly curved so I'm holding the lower edge of the protractor tangentially on the curved surface and I've set the upper edge to touch the bonnet at both ends.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Protractor_20on_20car_1_480x480.jpg?v=1723029047"></div>
<p>Ideally, the bonnet stay should be at its maximum length when the bonnet is open and at its minimum length when the bonnet is closed. It is of course possible to calculate the mounting position of each end geometrically, but I'd rather mock it up on the bench where I can see it all happening before my very eyes. I cut two pieces of wood to represent the bonnet and its surround on the inner wing. I measured the centre of rotation of the hinge and pivoted the two pieces on an M5 bolt.</p>
<p>Now the maximum opening angle is 35.5 degrees. This must be at the maximum length of the stay. The stay's release mechanism will give an 'at rest' position of a couple of degrees less than that.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Wood_20mock_20up_202_1_480x480.jpg?v=1723029041"></div>
<p>I've held one piece of the wood in my bench vice and bolted a simple plate to the top end of the stay so I can clamp it to the wood with a welding clamp. I've temporarily fixed the bottom end with a simple bradawl pushed into the wood (I still have to stop the lower mount from rotating when I test the mechanism but it's good enough for now). Bear in mind where the final mounting points will be on the car when you're moving the stay. When you've found the optimum position of the upper and lower mounting points take accurate measurements and transfer the dimensions to the car. </p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/wooden_20jig_20low_20angle_1_480x480.jpg?v=1723028982"></div>
<p><br>... and here it is mounted at both ends. I've just drilled straight through the bonnet and fixed it with M 4 screws. I can fill the holes later. At the bottom I've made a stainless angle bracket and bolted it to the underside of the bonnet reveal with M5 countersunk screws.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/stay_20opened_1_480x480.jpg?v=1723028975"></div>
<p><br>Here's the stainless bracket from underneath. I'll eventually sandwich a blob of filler between the bracket and the underside of the reveal to level-out and reinforce the mounting surface. </p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Bonnet_20stay_20under_1_480x480.jpg?v=1723028969"></div>
<p><br>I decided to use a CBS #CABLAT Cabinet Latch to hold the bonnet down. I can see little point in having a locking bonnet latch on this car so this simple latch with a square key to open it through a hole from the top is the simplest and most elegant solution. While the bonnet was still fitted I offered-up the latch and marked its position on the inside of the bonnet.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/cablat_20under_1_480x480.jpg?v=1723028962"></div>
<p><br>Back to the bonnet stay. I decided to use M4 'Big Head' fixings for the top mount. 'Big Heads' are drilled, stainless discs with a welded-on stud. They are bonded to a (usually fibreglass) surface with matting and resin to form a strong, load-spreading mounting point for smaller components. You can see that I've ground away a little of each so they won't overlap when fitted to the holes in the bracket. I've cleaned and abraded the GRP surface and marked the position of the Big Heads with magic marker. This piece of chopped-strand mat is the first layer and will be bonded directly to the bonnet.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/bnsty_20big_20heads_1_480x480.jpg?v=1723028956"></div>
<p>Here's the two M4 Big Heads bonded-in, with one layer of GRP beneath them and three layers on top - and the top mounting bracket of the bonnet stay. You see the guide marks through the wet resin. It's almost impossible to not get resin on the threads. I'll just run an M4 die down them later to clean them up.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/stay_20and_20big_20heads_1_480x480.jpg?v=1723028934"></div>
<p>The Cabinet Latch with M6 Big Heads ready to be glassed onto the first layer of mat. I've scratched some lines into the bonnet as a positioning guide. I'll drill a hole through for the square key later. The small hole here was used to line-up the bonnet when I was fitting the hinges. It'll be filled. </p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/cablat_20and_20bigheads_1_480x480.jpg?v=1723028920"></div>
<p>The Cabinet Latch will mount between the nuts on these two M6 Big Heads. It can then be adjusted up and down to adjust the bonnet fit. I'll replace them later with Nyloc nuts. </p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/cablat_20and_20bigheads_1_480x480.jpg?v=1723028920"></div>
<p>Voila</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/cablat_20fitted_1_480x480.jpg?v=1723028893"></div>
<p>After much thought and research I finally opted for these 5J Weller Steel Pepperpot wheels. The only colour choice was white so I sent them to the powder-coaters for blasting and powder coating in Rosso-Corsa Red. Unfortunately that was unsuccessful - they came back fluorescent orange with a crap finish. So, I took them to Kent Custom Dipping in Laddingford - but this time, chose this Silver finish. They did a superb job.</p>
<div style="text-align: left;"><img style="float: none;" alt="" src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Wheel_20on_20Berk_1_480x480.jpg?v=1723028886"></div>
<p>That'll do for this post. Sorry it's been a long time 'a comin' but work has to take priority over Toys. Hopefully I'll be able to find some more time to get cracking on the engine installation soon and we'll be able to bring it along to shows and give the NORVIN a rest. Ciao for now.</p>]]>
    </content>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <id>https://www.carbuilder.com/blogs/p4-replica/hubs-and-uprights</id>
    <published>2012-11-03T12:09:39+00:00</published>
    <updated>2024-08-07T16:00:05+01:00</updated>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.carbuilder.com/blogs/p4-replica/hubs-and-uprights"/>
    <title>6. Hubs and Uprights</title>
    <author>
      <name>Neil Foreman</name>
    </author>
    <content type="html">
      <![CDATA[<div>OK - time available for another little spurt of activity. Our plan is to reshape the wheel arches so they fit tighter and further around the wheels to update the styling just a little. But, before that can happen we need to choose the wheels and tyres, But before that can happen we need to assemble the suspension. But before that can happen we need to assemble the uprights. But before that can happen we need to prepare the hubs. Phew !!!</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Hubs_2.jpg?v=1723041056" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>Ford's early Scorpio and Granada III (around 1986) were the ideal donor for front and rear hubs and driveshafts. Strong and plentiful at the time, they can easily cope with the 400+ bhp that was often transmitted through them. We had most of the parts brand new in stock and only had to find one more front hub on ebay. </div>
<div>The uprights were cast from our own patterns in LM25 aluminium and were machined by me in our machine shop in baches of ten sets at a time. (40 castings) This represented bout six weeks of solid machining. No CNCs - just digital readouts and digital calipers. And here they are hubs and uprights. </div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Hubs2.jpg?v=1723041055" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>First step - press out the old wheel studs (they're 10mm too short for alloys anyway) and give the hubs a good grit blast to remove any surface rust or the crappy original cad plating..</div>
<div>I chose to paint the hubs gloss black with POR15 'Chassis Coat Black' but first they got a bath in POR15 'Metal Prep' which gives bare metal a coat of Zinc Phosphate for the best possible rust prevention.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Hubs_3.jpg?v=1723041058" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>The bores, splines, bearing and seal surfaces were masked and the rest given a coat of the black gloss. </div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Hubs_4.jpg?v=1723041056" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>And so - to the uprights. On all the cars we built over the years I don't believe we ever polished the uprights - although several of our customers did. Well, this is supposed to be a special build with no limits - so polished uprights it is.</div>
<div> I started by dressing the castings with a 60 grit flap disc on my Makita 18 volt battery angle grinder - removing the sand texture and radiusing all the sharp edges.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Hubs_5.jpg?v=1723041056" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>The flap disc was then replaced by Scotchbrite discs on a velcro backing pad.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Hubs_6.jpg?v=1723041057" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>Then the dirtiest job of all. Fully suited, goggled and masked it's on to the polishing wheel.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Hubs_7.jpg?v=1723041059" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>Here's the assembled upright fitted with new seals and bearings and longer studs. </div>
<div>One down, three to go.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Hubs_8.jpg?v=1723041060" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>]]>
    </content>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <id>https://www.carbuilder.com/blogs/p4-replica/gear-lever-housing-modifications</id>
    <published>2012-11-02T12:09:39+00:00</published>
    <updated>2024-08-07T15:58:15+01:00</updated>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.carbuilder.com/blogs/p4-replica/gear-lever-housing-modifications"/>
    <title>5. Gear lever housing modifications</title>
    <author>
      <name>Neil Foreman</name>
    </author>
    <content type="html">
      <![CDATA[<div>The original Porsche gear lever housing is big, ugly and made of plastic. This picture shows an aftermarket conversion kit for replacing the nylon bearing housings with anodised aluminium ones. The theory is that the mod will reduce play in the linkage and make the lever action more positive and tight. </div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/GH_mod1.jpg?v=1723041053" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>So, I copied the idea and made my own, adjustable aluminium bearing housings </div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/GH_mod2.jpg?v=1723041054" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>I trimmed away everything that wasn't part of the lever movement mechanism and made a new housing for it from 3mm aluminium sheet. </div>
<div>Here it is all Cleko'd together with with the trimmed, original housing secured inside.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/GH_mod3.jpg?v=1723041058" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>My mate (and P4 chassis welding veteran), Ray, TiG welded it together.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/GH_mod4.jpg?v=1723041055" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>Cables attached ready for testing in position. The Clekos will be replaced with stainless screws.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/GH_mod5.jpg?v=1723041057" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
#BBD0E0
»]]>
    </content>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <id>https://www.carbuilder.com/blogs/p4-replica/more-engine-and-body-stuff</id>
    <published>2012-11-01T12:09:39+00:00</published>
    <updated>2024-08-07T15:50:03+01:00</updated>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.carbuilder.com/blogs/p4-replica/more-engine-and-body-stuff"/>
    <title>2. More engine and body stuff</title>
    <author>
      <name>Neil Foreman</name>
    </author>
    <content type="html">
      <![CDATA[<p>Before going any further with the engine modifications - and while it was fitted to the transmission we thought we'd drop it into the chassis and make the mounts.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/ENG_TRAN_fitted.jpg?v=1723041054" alt="ENG&amp;TRAN fitted" width="100%"></p>
<p>It's quite a tall engine so sitting it as low as possible will make life easier when it comes to making the inevitable 'Dome' in the engine cover, tail section. It also helps with C of G and drive shaft alignment. The easiest method of designing and fabricating engine mounts is to 'chock-up' the engine on the chassis, adjusting the packing pieces and checking with a spirit level until it's sitting 3mm higher than the final position. 3mm is approximately the compression distance of the rubber engine mounts with the full weight of the engine on them. </p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Engine_mounts.jpg?v=1723041051" alt="Engine mounts" width="100%"></p>
<p>The standard Ford , pressed-steel sump sits 40mm below the bottom of the chassis. We will eventually remove it, make it shallower and wider and install windage gates to prevent oil surge. The oil pick-up pipe will be shortened to match. You can see the adapter plate below chassis level at the back of the sump. This also needs milling down by about 15mm.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Sump_below.jpg?v=1723041051" alt="Sump below" width="100%"></p>
<p>Although we're discarding the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) system, I decided to retain the four, original catalytic converters and the four original Lambda sensors. The cats are all stainless steel and already have shields over them so they can be dressed and polished to look quite acceptable..I also decided to retain the original cast iron exhaust manifolds in the name of reliability. The engine was supplied complete with exhausts right down to the back boxes so I cannibalised them as much as possible and bought two, 135 degree stainless bends to supplement the pipe stock. We thought it would be different and quite stylish to copy The P4/5 idea of taking the exhausts through the tail deck at an angle so I separated each cat by sawing them off at the inlet and outlet with a hacksaw. I also bought four new M18 threaded bushes to weld into the exhaust at suitable positions later.</p>
<p>Here's the first Cat - same on each side connected to the manifold.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/CAT_1_LH_side.jpg?v=1723041050" alt="CAT 1 LH side" width="100%"></p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/P4_5_rear_view.jpg?v=1723041041" alt="P4 5 rear view" width="100%"></p>
<p>We thought we'd opt for a centre gearchange on this car - the first ever on a P4. We'd used the Porsche cable-change and lever parts a couple of times but always with the lever on the right - in the driver's sill cavity. Unfortunately, the standard cables proved too short for centre-change so, after a few hours trawling the internet for available options we purchased an extended pair from Ultima - supposedly direct replacements - only longer. Not so. The inners were about three inches longer than necessary and only one end matched the originals and none of the end-fittings on the outer cables matched the originals. </p>
<p>Never mind - that's Car Building for you - just one hurdle after another. Where there's a will - there's a way.</p>
<p>The inner cables at the selector end were finished with M5 male threads on which would be screwed the little, throttle linkage ball joint sockets. These ball joint sockets should press and snap onto the ball ends on the selector arms. Trouble is, the balls already staked to the selector arms were 10mm diameter - the size of M6 threaded ball joints - not M5 ones. Those sockets accept a smaller, 8mm diameter ball. The solution - cut the threaded part from two M5 sockets and silver solder them to the, cut-off, socket ends from two M6 joints. </p>
<p>The picture below shows the original Porsche cable mounting bracket bolted to the transmission casing. I've welded additional plates for the outer cable mounting 40mm behind the originals.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/G96_Cable_bracket.jpg?v=1723041052" alt="G96 Cable bracket" width="100%"></p>
<p> This picture shows the finished, modified bracket. The cables will, mostly be in the engine bay, close to the exhausts so I took the opportunity, to cover and protect them with our Black Temprotect Sleeving.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Por_gear_cable_bkt.jpg?v=1723041051" alt="Por gear cable bkt" width="100%"></p>
<p>Here's the modified original Porsche gear lever mechanism and housing. Some of the webbing and all of the original Outer Cable mountings were Powerfiled away and two new mountings made from 2mm angle then bolted through the moulding base. It 's a little bulky and I contemplated re-manufacturing it all in aluminium with bronze bushes. But it couldn't really be made much smaller so I thought I'd leave it for the time being and see how it fared in the centre position.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Por_Gear_lever_assy.jpg?v=1723041049" alt="Por Gear lever assy" width="100%"></p>
<p>SHAPE CHANGES</p>
<p>One of the design compromises on the Foreman Mk4 kits was the height of the roof- line. Like the GT40's, the original P4's were very low and almost impossible to drive by anyone over 5 foot 8 inches tall. So, to open our market to more potential owners we added 40mm to the roof height at the mid bulkhead and made the roof section narrower to ease getting in and out. Most people didn't even know the difference but it made the car much more comfortable for taller drivers.</p>
<p>However, both Matthew and I are around 5' 8" and as this is intended to be a family heirloom - hopefully, never to be sold - we decided to reduce the roof height and width back to the original. You can see the difference clearly in the pictures below.</p>
<p>We didn't take this decision lightly. For a start, the chassis roll-over bar was already made and welded to the chassis so this would have to be cut off, re-shaped and re-welded. The mid-bulkhead would have to be re-curved to the new roof line. The double-curvature roof panel would have to be cut and reshaped. The forward end of the tail section and rear window would require serious surgery to match the new mid-section profile. And the tops of the doors would need re-moulding to match the new reveal shape. </p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Original_roof_line.jpg?v=1723041041" alt="Original roof line" width="100%"></p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Roof_line_original.jpg?v=1723041052" alt="Roof line original" width="100%"></p>
<p>So, here we go. The picture above shows the masking-tape cut-lines. Right across the front, a couple of inches back from the windscreen and each side of the mid bulkhead about half way up. With the roof panel removed, access to the roll-over bar was easy. I made a template from 6mm ply that gave me the now, 40mm - lower roll-over bar profile. We just have to cut it off, re-shape it and re-weld it.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Roll_bar_template.jpg?v=1723041053" alt="Roll bar template" width="100%"></p>
<p>The removed panel was then cut into three as shown below - separating the roof from the mid bulkhead and then cutting it in half. During the moulding process, all of the roof area was reinforced with additional layers of "Coremat' - a glass fibre blanket 3mm thick which. when saturated with resin makes an immensely strong panel around 12mm thick. The cutting tool was our air-powered panel saw fitted with half a hacksaw blade. You can see two small aluminium strips have been riveted to the inside of the mid bulkhead. These are there to support the roof when we're just laying it on as a mock-up.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Roof_cut_in_3.jpg?v=1723041056" alt="Roof cut in 3" width="100%"></p>
<p>The following picture shows the inverted mid bulkhead sawn almost through at one inch intervals along it's whole length. It's important to keep the remaining thickness of gel-coat consistent at every cut. Otherwise the panel will not re-shape evenly. I achieved this by taping two pieces of 3mm aluminium sheet to the bench top with the the bulkhead resting between them. When the blade of the panel saw kisses both aluminium pieces at the same time the gelcoat and GRP material left uncut is 3mm thick. So, what is left is a flexible mid-bulkhead panel that will quite easily bend to a new shape. The change is subtle - only 40mm in height difference in the middle so the saw-blade cut width of about 1mm is plenty. </p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Mid_BH_underside.jpg?v=1723041047" alt="Mid BH underside" width="100%"></p>
<p>The middle sections of the mid-bulkhead also required a slight 'tweek' downward so I cut a 'V' right through the moulding from the mid-window to the point where the angle change starts, then relieved the thickness - again to about 3mm so it could be flexed easily.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Mid_bulkhead_cut.jpg?v=1723041052" alt="Mid bulkhead cut" width="100%"></p>
<p>Back in 1967 the four original P4's (yes, only 4) were hand-made. by craftsmen with simple templates, patterns and skilful judgement - a world away from modern, computer-generated designs. Each of the four was slightly different from the others as a result. We used the same eyeball/judgement method to determine the new roof width and shape of the mid bulkhead. </p>
<p>The radius around the top of the windscreen is fairy consistent so the curvature of the front of the roof panels could remain unchanged. But the curvature at the back was significantly different. We tackled this problem by making four long saw-cuts in each roof panel from the back to a couple of inches from the front. This allowed the rear curvature of the roof to flex and roughly match the new shape of the mid bulkhead. It was all temporarily held in place with riveted aluminium plates. You can see that we've widened the roof by about eight inches. When the time comes we'll fill-in the centre hole and reinforce the whole area by 'laying-up' new GRP inside and out. </p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Roof_plated_together.jpg?v=1723041052" alt="Roof plated together" width="100%"></p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Roof_before_after.jpg?v=1723041055" alt="Roof before &amp; after" width="100%"></p>
<p>Here's our battered Panel Saw - still going strong after twenty years of abuse.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Panel_Saw.jpg?v=1723041047" alt="Panel Saw" width="100%"></p>
<p>Here you can see the four layers that make up the roof and mid bulkhead panels. The Black Gel-coat at the top, then 4mm of mat &amp; resin, then 3mm of core-mat and resin then another 3mm of mat and resin - immensely strong. </p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Roof_thickness.jpg?v=1723041048" alt="Roof thickness" width="100%"></p>
<p>I dug the stored tail section out of hibernation yesterday for a trial fit and was pleasantly reminded of how good these panels are. Unlike a Cobra or Fury where the body is all a one-piece moulding, the unmodified P4 kit has several body mouldings that must all match and fit together on the chassis to give the impression of a single shell. It's a tribute to the original designer Lee Noble.</p>
<p>Here it is - fitted to it's hinge and mounted to the chassis. I've cut a clearance hole around the top of the engine - which protrudes through only a few millimetres. This means a minimal dome and maximum rear visibility. Result. </p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Tail_rear_view_1st_fit.jpg?v=1723041054" alt="Tail rear view 1st fit" width="100%"></p>
<p>But here's the next challenge. You can see, in the picture below, the 40mm drop in the new roof-line compared to the original, matching tail shut. There's an awful lot of cutting, slicing, shaping and itching to do so, let the games begin.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Roof_and_tail_comparison.jpg?v=1723041050" alt="Roof and tail comparison" width="100%"></p>
<p>Oh, before I wrap-up this post, I had a pleasant surprise. You can see that the windscreen has been laid into it's surround in a previous picture and for some reason (old age, probably) I thought it had the old 'Kite' mark - no longer acceptable for IVA. This could have been a big problem.</p>
<p>But no. The last batch we had manufactured were 'E' marked. Another result!</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Windscreen_E11.jpg?v=1723041045" alt="Windscreen E11" width="100%"></p>]]>
    </content>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <id>https://www.carbuilder.com/blogs/p4-replica/continuing-the-roof-and-tail-chop</id>
    <published>2012-10-23T12:00:08+01:00</published>
    <updated>2024-08-07T15:45:58+01:00</updated>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.carbuilder.com/blogs/p4-replica/continuing-the-roof-and-tail-chop"/>
    <title>4. Continuing the roof and tail chop</title>
    <author>
      <name>Neil Foreman</name>
    </author>
    <content type="html">
      <![CDATA[<div>I've finally found a few spare hours to continue with the body mods and write a little about it.</div>
<div>In a previous thrilling episode I cut and reshaped the roof and upper mid bulkhead panels to a more pleasing shape and profile. Time now to glue all the pieces back together. My trusty Powerfile was the weapon of choice for this job - 'V-ing' out every join, between the aluminium plates to at least half the depth of the panel. I then fibreglassed enough of the 'V's to hold it together and then removed the aluminium plates and glassed -up the remaining grooves.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/IMG_1668.jpg?v=1723041062" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Glassed_corner.jpg?v=1723041054" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>I found an old roof lining panel in our store room that was designed to finish off the underside of the roof. It's shape was close enough to trim and bond-in - filling the gap admirably. In the piccy below, you can see the three re-bonded cut lines of the near side of the roof, the new, red, centre part of the roof and the beginnings of the new front door window radius in the bottom centre of the pic.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/IMG_1677.jpg?v=1723041062" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>And so, onto the big one. Re-shaping the tail section. Back in the day, I can recall lowering the roof on a couple of customer's cars. The results were certainly an improvement on the original hump-back shape but the budget wasn't enough to go the whole-hod and do the job properly. This time it's different. To achieve a smooth shape transition from the back of the tail to the mid bulkhead means many loooong cuts and many subtle tweeks. The first job was to remove the engine deck and any internal bulkheads that were in the way of the planned cuts. It was important to 'dress-down' all the high points on the underside of the tail to achieve an even thickness of GRP in all areas to be modified otherwise the panels would not bend and re-shape evenly.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/IMG_1705.jpg?v=1723041064" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>I measured and marked the first few cut-lines using only instinct and judgement - this is not a scientific process - it's very much a suck-it-and-see procedure. It is important however, to duplicate the cuts and marks symmetrically on each side. </div>
<div>Lightweight glassbibre panels often rely on angles and returns on the edges to keep them rigid and strong. Making a few simple cuts along the returns renders them amazingly floppy and flexible. The picture below shows just the first few cuts and already you can see a significant change in the curvature of the panel.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/IMG_1709.jpg?v=1723041062" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>The following few pictures represent a few day's work - much of it spent just walking around the car, looking, measuring. making paper templates, more looking from every angle, trimming, repositioning. It's important that none of the repositioned panels are stressed to get them to their new positions. There's no point in glassing-up the new panel with built-in stresses. It'll crack and move for sure. If all the pieces of a panel won't fall easily to the new position you want it in then make another cut until they do.</div>
<div>There are dozens of Clekos holding it all together. Don't be afraid to reposition the plates and drill new holes - they are easily fixed.</div>
<div>In the picture below you can see a white cardboard template shaped around the top of the rear window reveal. I transferred this pattern to a sheet of 1mm aluminium and used it to support all the cut 'fingers' of the upper tail panel in their new positions while they are being re-glassed together.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/IMG_1803.jpg?v=1723041059" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/IMG_1807.jpg?v=1723041060" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/IMG_1808.jpg?v=1723041059" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>It's worth a quick reminder that the sides and rear of the tail section are securely fixed in position on the main tub to keep a stable datum whilst all this cutting is going on. </div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/IMG_1810.jpg?v=1723041059" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>Simple paper templates that can be flipped over from side to side help to keep it all symetrical. That said, the length of one sill on the Foreman main tub moulding is 25mm more than the other - simply beacause the original Ferrair P4 from which the templates were taken was just that - 25mm longer on one side than the other. These were hand-built, aluminium bodies made in 1967 for just one race season. Absolute accuracy wasn't necessary. The old adage, 'If it looks right, it probably is right'. certainly applies here.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/IMG_1811.jpg?v=1723041059" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>Here it is - all cut, reshaped, plated and Cleko'd - ready for a few square metres of glassfibre and a few litres or resin. 40mm height reduction may not seem much but if you compare the roof and rear window profile with an earlier picture you'll see the subtle difference in shape. Fortunately, the rear window is 3mm thick moulded Acrylic and was always supplied oversize for the builder to trim. It can be easily trimmed to the shape of the new reveal and will form to the new curvature - no problemo.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/IMG_1806.jpg?v=1723041062" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>This time, I used a 100mm diameter flap disc on an angle grinder to 'scallop' the top surface of all the cuts - almost through to the underside.</div>
<div>Strips of glassfibre and resin were then layered into the scallops back up to surface level. </div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/IMG_1813.jpg?v=1723041063" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>It's a bit like open heart surgery innit? The surgical scars and dormant heart beneath the blanket.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/IMG_1814.jpg?v=1723041056" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>More later.</div>]]>
    </content>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <id>https://www.carbuilder.com/blogs/p4-replica/cockpit-layout</id>
    <published>2012-10-13T12:00:08+01:00</published>
    <updated>2024-08-07T15:41:54+01:00</updated>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.carbuilder.com/blogs/p4-replica/cockpit-layout"/>
    <title>3. Cockpit Layout</title>
    <author>
      <name>Neil Foreman</name>
    </author>
    <content type="html">
      <![CDATA[<div>When we designed the cockpit layout of the Foreman Mk4 some twenty years ago we had to make it as universal as possible within it's size and shape restraints whilst still retaining the period flavour of the original 1967 race car. The Mk4 was never conceived as a replica race car but as a road-going sports car that looked like Ferrari's classic P4. All the mechanical components had to be readily available at a reasonable cost, capable of performing reliably in a (potentially) 200 mph vehicle and had to be legal for, at first, MoT testing, then SVA and now IVA testing. Here's what we ended up with in the cockpit - and why.</div>
<div>
<strong>PEDALS</strong> BMW's E-30 was the chosen donor for the Pedal Box and Servo. In this model, the servo/master cylinder assembly was mounted on the engine bay firewall - in front of the passenger. A transverse rod from passenger side to driver side linked the master cylinder push rod to the brake pedal through a series of bell cranks and ball joints. This layout was perfect for the P4 because of the limited space available in front of the pedal bulkhead. Other benefits were the 'production-car' spacing of the pedals and the 'integral' Clutch Master Cylinder and Throttle Pedal, integral Fluid Reservoirs and steel pedals that could be easily 'cut-and-shut' to the driver's preference. And it all bolted directly to our pedal bulkhead. The brake master cylinder mounts on the other side of the servo. You can see the integral (aluminium) clutch master cylinder, the integral stop-light switch and the integral throttle pedal mechanism. Neat.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Servo_Padals.jpg?v=1723041057" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>
<br><strong>STEERING COLUMN </strong>ROVER's SD1 became the preferred donor of the upper steering column. The two-piece internal shaft had the required 'collapsibility' element whilst the simple mounting bracket allowed up, down, forward and aft movement of the whole column. The Rover's 'Stalk' assembly, which clamped around the top of the column had windscreen wiper control switch, main and dip beam, screen wash, side/headlamp switch and horn button all pre-wired to two multi-pin plugs.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Column.jpg?v=1723029646" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>
<strong>HANDBRAKE </strong> The early MINI had a, small, two cable, pressed steel handbrake lever with simple two-bolt mounting and cable adjustment at the cockpit end. It disassembled easily and could be chromed or painted to look the part. We had special cables made to connect it to the Ford Scorpio Rear Calipers.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Handbrake.jpg?v=1723041057" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>It's all pretty-basic, simple stuff but it worked fine for the fifty or so cars we produced. 'If it ain't broke - don't fix it' certainly applies here.</div>
<div>Even the big, ugly Rover steering wheel had a part to play. Here it is before and after a serious torching in our bonfire. In the bottom picture I've sawn away the centre ' boss' section.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/SD1_wheel.jpg?v=1723041061" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/SD1_wheek_post_burnup.jpg?v=1723041063" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>I then machined off the excess steel plate to a diameter of 76mm on our lathe.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Turning_wheel_boss.jpg?v=1723041053" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>I made an aluminium adapter to join this nice Momo steering wheel to my new 'boss' - now drilled and painted satin black.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Momo_and_parts.jpg?v=1723041055" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>Here it is - assembled. Unlike most steering wheel bosses, this is very short, allowing the wheel to mount directly to the top of the column.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Wheel_adapter_assembled.jpg?v=1723041051" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>So, here's the pedal box, mounted to the bulkhead. I've cut the brake and clutch pedals and inserted a 100mm long piece of 25mm x 6mm steel strip, bolted at each end into both of them. This will allow considerable setting-up 'adjustment' before finally welding it all together in the chosen position. The piece of white paper taped to the clutch pedal is a template of the foot-pad's original position. You can see that we've raised both foot pads by a couple of inches and moved them towards the driver by an inch or so. You can just see the lower spline of the upper steering column in the top right of the picture. A <a href="/products/steering-column-link-400mm">column 'link'</a> with a <a href="/products/large-diameter-steering-universal-joint-forged">UJ</a> will connect this, through the pedals to the rack up front.</div>
<div><img src="Pedal%20box%20in%20situ" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>Because the P4's cockpit is quite narrow, our choice of seats is very limited. Most aftermarket bucket seats are far too wide - especially at the shoulder. To further complicate things, IVA rules dictate that either the pedas or the driver's seat are adjustable so, in our case, <a href="/search?q=seat+runners&amp;options%5Bprefix%5D=last&amp;type=product">seat runners</a> must be fitted. Our headroom is now even less than before so getting our bum as close to the floor-pan as possible is critical. We borrowed a suitably-narrow seat (Lotus Elise) from a local manufacturer and made a quick frame for some runners. I was able to mount the seat moulding between the runners so it would be almost touching the floor thus saving at least an inch of seat height.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Seat_runners.jpg?v=1723030131" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>Here's Matthew testing the layout of everything for the first time. The gear lever assembly is just hung from the dash frame with a couple of steel strips. It needs to go down and forward with a possible tweek upwards of the lever. Either the seat-back angle needs changing or the runners re-mounted in-line with the floor. Hmm ... a recliner would be nice wouldn't it? The head-rest height could probably lose an inch and the gear lever housing could do with slimming down a little but it's looking promising. Remember though, that this is our car, we're both similar size and we won't be selling it for the foreseeable future. So it doesn't have to be adjustable for anyone else.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Matt_testing_cockpit.jpg?v=1723041055" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>]]>
    </content>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <id>https://www.carbuilder.com/blogs/p4-replica/p4-build-first-post</id>
    <published>2012-10-03T11:44:48+01:00</published>
    <updated>2024-08-07T15:37:15+01:00</updated>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.carbuilder.com/blogs/p4-replica/p4-build-first-post"/>
    <title>1. P4 Build First Post</title>
    <author>
      <name>Neil Foreman</name>
    </author>
    <content type="html">
      <![CDATA[<p>As I begin this build log it’s 11.40 on the 3rd of December 2009 and my first Grandchild is about to enter the world at any second. Coincidentally, it’s also twenty years, almost to the day, that Matthew and I placed an order for our first Kit Car - the stunning Noble Mk4, Ferrari P4 Replica. And so began our association with the world of home-build cars. That first car won ‘Best of Show’ at almost every show we visited and it’s build was featured in five consecutive monthly issues of Which Kit? Magazine. The final instalment had a fantastic cover picture by Ian Stent and was the biggest selling Kit Car Magazine ever. Doors began to open and we started making and selling parts for Kit Cars. As luck would have it, the P4 project came up for sale at around the time I was thinking of quitting the entertainment industry so I took the plunge and became a full-time Kit Car manufacturer. By the third car we had re-designed both the body moulds and the chassis and suspension. There soon followed the V12 Ferrari-engined, open-top CanAm and the launch of Car Builder Solutions as a separate entity. We went on to manufacture over fifty Foreman Mk4’s in either Kit form or as drive-away turnkeys. Sales of the Foreman were a steady flow but were destined never to be a torrent. Car Builder Solutions, however, grew rapidly and in 2008 we sold the MK4 project lock, stock and two smoking exhausts to Dunlop Systems in Coventry. However, we kept enough parts to build one final car as a family heirloom. The bare chassis has been waiting patiently in a dark corner of our welding shop and has acquired a light coating of rust, but nothing that a blast and powder-coat won’t sort out. And the body panels have been stored safely under cover - until now, that is. We’ve finally found time and space to resurrect them and make a start on putting it all together. It’ll be a long term project for sure but I’ll update this log whenever anything significant has been achieved. So, buckle-up and enjoy the ride.</p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/ForemanFerrari_1st_pic.jpg?v=1723041064" alt="" width="100%"></p>
<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Canam2.jpg?v=1706282282" alt="" width="100%"></p>
<div>CHASSIS, ENGINE AND BODY CHOICES</div>
<div>This, final car was conceived a couple of years ago, towards the end of our production run. We knew it would be the last one we would build and the one that we would keep so it was planned to our own unique specification. Most production Foreman Mk4’s were built upon a raised version of the chassis, simply because it offered a tad more headroom for the taller driver (most are taller than us). However, for this car we decided to build a lower chassis that would allow the body to sit 40mm lower than standard. Matthew and I are both 5ft 8in - so headroom is not an issue. We also chose the Berlinetta body style - that is, full, fixed roof, full height doors and full length tail window - just like the first one we ever built. Although the P4 is such a timeless shape, we once toyed with the idea of modernising it - at least from the waist down. Squaring-off the huge swooping sills and closing- in the wheel arches were a couple of styling changes that we thought would compliment the original design. Within months of us conceiving the idea Italian design house, Pininfarina contributed to a one-off car they called the P4/5 - actually a re-bodied Enzo but pretty-much what we had in mind for the Foreman. We may still play with the ideas to a limited degree. </div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/P5_side_view.jpg?v=1723041047" alt="" width="100%"></div>
<div>Here’s the chassis in one of our workshops with it’s light coating of surface rust and the centre section and nose plonked on. It’s complete except for the engine and transmission mounts.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Rusty_chassis.jpg?v=1723041055" alt="" width="100%"></div>
<div>Ahh, the engine. What to choose? Every Mk4 we manufactured was fitted with the owner’s choice of engine from Renault V6 to Rover V8, Chevy V8, Lamborghini V12, Ferrari V8 and Ferrari V12. We wanted a modern engine with good performance, reasonable economy and maximum reliability. Fuel injection was a must-have - as was availability of parts. Having been victims of the Small Block Chevy ‘Complete Engine’ scam where the so-called ‘complete engine’ still needs a starter, alternator, manifolds, carb, etc. etc. amounting to more than the cost of the original engine, we opted for a Ford 4.6L V8. Apparently Ford had massively over-produced engine/transmission packages for the ‘98 Mustang because the cars didn’t sell as well as had been predicted. So, they sold off the excess stock. Thus, for the grand sum of £6,000 we had a wooden crate containing a 1998 pre-assembled engine/manual transmission package with everything on it ready to drop right into a Mustang body shell. Just connect up and drive away. Yup, that’s a fuel injected 32 valve, quad cam engine with ECU, all wiring and harnesses, water pump, thermostat and all hoses to connect to the radiator, header tank and heater. Power steering pump, tank and hoses. Air-con compressor with hoses, Alternator, pulleys and belt. Coils, ignition leads and plugs. Exhaust manifolds, catalytic converters and exhaust pipes right back to just before the rear boxes. Oil filter and water-cooled oil cooler. All EGR plumbing and electrics (exhaust gas recirculation). Engine mounts. Inlet manifold and throttle cable. All engine senders and electronics. Flywheel and clutch. Five speed manual gearbox, lever, boot and mountings. All brand new, sealed and untouched since the crate was nailed closed at the factory.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Engine_front.jpg?v=1723041057" alt="" width="100%"></div>
<div>The Mustang is, of course a front engined car which makes the gearbox supplied redundant but the starter, flywheel and possibly the clutch can be retained. Installation of any into a mid-engined car is never straightforward so there are several modifications to be done. It is important to mount the engine as far forward as possible in the Mk4, both for optimum weight distribution and simply to make room for the relatively long, Porsche Transaxle. As you can see on the previous photograph the Ford engine is quite ‘busy’ up front. Both coils are mounted in front of the rocker covers, the power steering fluid reservoir is there as are all the pipes and hoses for the EGR system and a coolant by-pass tube right in front of the alternator. Power steering isn’t required so the hoses and reservoir can go but we’ll keep the pump and pulley simply as an idler to save re-routing the belt. EGR won’t be required for UK emission requirements. The coils can be relocated at the rear of the rocker covers and the water bypass tube can be remodelled to direct the coolant in another direction. The result, as you can see here is a very flat-fronted engine.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Engine_front_stripped.jpg?v=1723041066" alt="" width="100%"></div>
<div>As always, there are some jobs that must be completed before the next build stage can start and joining the engine to the transmission is probably the most important one. The transaxle we chose is a Getrag G96/00 - six speed, limited slip with cable change, originally fitted to 1998 to 2001 Porsche Carrera 2’s. This must be mounted to the Ford engine upside-down because, in the Porsche, it sits in front of the engine and in the Foreman, it’s behind - and we don’t want six reverse gears and one forward do we? And here it is in all it’s brand new glory.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/G96_new.jpg?v=1723041049" alt="" width="100%"></div>
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<div>On the P4, the distance between the front of the engine and the driveshaft output flanges on the grearbox must always be minimised to achieve both, straight driveshafts and clear access around the alternator and water pump for maintenance and servicing. It’s also important to keep the engine as low in the chassis as possible so careful measuring is critical at an early stage.</div>
<div>Proof of engine age is very important when you come to testing and registering your car in UK. Unfortunately this and many other Ford engines do not have an engine number stamped into the block - there are only paper stickers showing the engine type and date of manufacture. There is, however a casting mark on the block, hidden behind the starter motor. A written declaration of it's age from the engine supplier should, in combination with the other ID's, be sufficient. </div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/G96_ID.jpg?v=1723041050" alt="" width="100%"></div>
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<img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/SPECIFICATION.jpg?v=1723041046" alt="" width="100%" border="0"><img src="SPECIFICATION%20chart" alt="" width="100%" border="0">
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<div>If it seems like a long time between updates to this build log, you're right. We admitted this will be a long term project and running CBS has to take priority. So, although we haven't done much work, the spending continues.</div>
<div>The original Ford engine wiring harness contains so much superfluous stuff and the layout doesn't lend itself to mid-engine installation. The ignition switch and door locks are all linked to the main ECU as a security measure and much of the emissions equipment is not necessary in UK - or indeed, in many US states. True to the universal laws of supply and demand, Ron Francis Wireworks in California have developed an aftermarket engine harness package for the Ford 4.6L. They re-flashed our original ECU and supplied a piggy-back connector panel with integral relays and fuses. Included in the package is a wired plug for every engine sender, each with enough cable to form your own engine loom, whatever the layout. So, in theory, we'll be able to assemble a perfect, custom, engine harness with only the circuits we need - no more, no less.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/New_Engine_Harness.jpg?v=1723041057" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>TRANSMISSION MODIFICATIONS</div>
<div>So, here we go with the adapter plate. There will be lots of careful measuring and calculation required to ensure everything is square, concentric and manufactured to acceptable tolerances for reliable operation and long component life. I find it always helps to write everything down and make full-size sketches and drawings on a large sheet of graph paper. Here's my temporary 'drawing board' - just half a sheet of ply, cable-tied to the back of the chassis</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Drawing_board.jpg?v=1723041046" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>A few simple and inexpensive tools will be sufficient for the design and drawing job.</div>
<div>A Digital Caliper can be accurate to within one thousandth of an inch or 0.01mm and can measure dimensions up to 150mm. And a selection of steel rules are cheap and accurate 'straight edges' and can give you instant measurements with an accuracy of less than half a millimetre - depending on your eyesight, of course.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Meaasuring_with_rule_and_caliper.jpg?v=1723041052" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>There are several important factors to bear in mind when designing custom engine to gearbox adapters.</div>
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<strong>1. FLYWHEEL</strong> You can either keep the engine's original flywheel - which means that, in our example, you can also retain the ring gear and original starter motor. Some Porsche transmissions have the starter motor mounted on the bell housing, pointing forward to the engine's flywheel. This would offer you the option of changing the flywheel to one more similar to the Porsche. However, the G96 has no starter mounting option so I opted to retain the Ford one. </div>
<div>Most modern automotive engines are desigmed to be fitted to both manual and auto transmissions and this one is no exception. A flex plate (without the torque converter) can offer a hybrid option. You'll still have the ring gear and starter motor but you could also bolt an additional, smaller flywheel to the crank - sandwiching the flex plate.</div>
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<strong>2. CLUTCH</strong> The transmission's original pressure plate and friction plate are usually the easiest option - as indeed is the case with our G96. This means that we can also retain the original Porsche slave cylinder, release bearing, fork and guide tube.</div>
<div>Of course, there are many other clutch options from hydraulic release bearings to mult-friction plates and these will bring additional measuring and design challenges. Two important dimensions you will need to know from the outset are: 'What is the position of the clutch pressure plate fingers when the clutch is engaged?' and 'How far must the pressure plate fingers move to release the friction plate?' Here's a simple way of measuring that distance. </div>
<div>Find a brake disc with a flat, smooth surface and clamp together the pressure plate and friction plate - just like you were bolting it up to a flywheel. Support the disc on the bed of a pillar drill or vertical milling machine. Find a disc of metal about 75mm diameter that will sit on all the fingers so that you can press down the fingers and release the friction plate using the chuck on the machine just like a press. Insert a thin rod or stiff wire through an opening in the side of the pressure plate against the edge of the friction plate. Press down the fingers, taking careful note of the distance travelled, until you can move the friction plate with the wire. On Porsche clutches, this is usually around 10mm. From these dimensions you can then calculate the mounting position of the release bearing, release fork and slave cylinder.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Pressure_plate_on_disc.jpg?v=1723041054" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div><strong>3. RELEASE BEARING</strong></div>
<div>If you've very lucky, the mating position of the gearbox main shaft and the crankshaft pilot bearing will match - and if you're luckier still they may both be the same size. However, it's much more likely that you'll have to make a pilot bearing adapter or extender so, again, extremely careful measurement and calculation will be needed to ensure accurate positioning and alignment.</div>
<div>Here's my 'fag-packet' sketch of the new pilot bearing position and it's extended carrier.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/PILOT_BEARING_DRG.jpg?v=1723041047" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
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<div>And here it is, pressed into the crankshaft with the pilot bearing fitted</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Pilot_Bearing_Flywheel.jpg?v=1723041047" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
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<div>With careful calculation and measurement of all the components you should be able to work out the size and thickness of the adapter plate. However, our route was slightly more complex.</div>
<div>I've already mentioned the need to keep the engine/transmission assembly as short as possible to fit in the P4's engine bay. But it's also important that the driveshaft output flanges are in-line with the rear wheel hubs. The solution? Chop a couple of inches from the transmission Bell Housing. Problem is, the G96 doesn't have a separate Bell Housing - it's all part of the main transmission casting. Fortunately it does lend itself to some neat modification. You can see the mounting face of the tranny in the picture below. If you were to chop away the first 40mm of this face, all the mounting holes, superfluous webbing and outer skin would be removed leaving a smooth, round, end to the housing. A replacement mounting flange can then be fitted. And here are the two chunks of aluminium - ordered and cut to the sizes you see here. The larger one on the left is for the adapter plate and the ring on the right is for the new transmission flange.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Billet_Plates.jpg?v=1723041054" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>It wasn't exactly a shot in the dark as we'd done this mod twice before on Ferrari V12 installations. Here's how we did it. </div>
<div>The tranny was clamped vertically to a large rotary table on our universal milling machine with the mainshaft pretty-much in the centre. The milling head was swung right over, parallel to the machine bed and a long, series, 6mm slot drill mounted in the collet. The cutter was plunged through the casting and the rotary table was turned slowly, cutting a slot almost all the way around the casting. Four small pillars were left un-cut to support the gearbox. These would be cut through with a hacksaw and dressed off later.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Porsche_on_mill_close_up.jpg?v=1723041052" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
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<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Porsche_on_mill.jpg?v=1723041054" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>Here's the part we don't need.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/G96_off_cut.jpg?v=1723041047" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
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<div>Fortunately, the quality of the German casting is very good so the remaining, ring of 5mm thick aluminium is remarkably round and true requiring only minimal dressing with a file.</div>
<div>The replacement aluminium ring was mounted on our old Colchester lathe and machined to fit perfectly over the end of the tranny casting.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Porsche_ring_on_lathe.jpg?v=1723041054" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>The ring was then clamped to the rotary table and a series of 4.3mm holes (M5 tapping size) was drilled right through from the outside edge to the inside edge. These would eventually all be tapped M5 from the inside edge.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Drilling_22_holes_in_BH_ring.jpg?v=1723041053" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>Whilst still on the rotary table, and with the milling head back in the vertical position, I drilled six, 10mm, equi-spaced holes for mounting the tranny to the adapter plate.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Drilling_BH_ring_on_mill.jpg?v=1723041053" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>The ring was pressed onto the transmission and the 4.3mm drill was used to continue all the holes through the casting. The ring was removed and all the holes in the casting were opened up to 5mm for the fixing screws.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Spotting_through_BH_ring.jpg?v=1723041054" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>The 4.3mm holes in the ring were then all tapped M5 x 15mm deep from the inside.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Tapping_BH_ring.jpg?v=1723041054" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>I used an angle drill to countersink all the 5mm holes around the 'bell-housing'.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/CSK_inside_BH.jpg?v=1723041051" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>Then, thoroughly keyed and cleaned, I bonded the ring to the 'bell-housing' with Helicopter Blade Glue - a two-part epoxy about as strong as you can get. and screwed it with stainless M5 countersunk screws and engineering Loctite.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Blade_glue_on_BH_ring.jpg?v=1723041053" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Ring_on_BH.jpg?v=1723041053" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
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<div>ENGINE / TRANSMISSION ADAPTER PLATE</div>
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<div>And so, to the adapter plate. The gearbox that came with the engine offered the ideal template-maker for our adapter. I cut a piece of 1mm aluminium sheet and made a perfectly-sized hole for the mainshaft using a tapered reamer.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Ford_gearbox_template.jpg?v=1723041050" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>The gearbox and aluminium sheet were laid face-down and clamped securely together. on a flat support plate. Transfer punches were used to mark the exact centres of all the bell-housing bolt positions and a line was scribed all around the casing.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Spotting_through_to_template.jpg?v=1723041052" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>Transfer punches are basically drill blanks with a ground centre-punch point on the end. A set like this one isn't too expensive and covers most popular metric and imperial sizes. If they're a little slack in the hole, a single layer of paper or masking tape around them will make them tight enough to transfer the hole centre to within a few thou.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Transfer_punch_set.jpg?v=1723041048" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>The template sheet was trimmed to the scribed profile line and all the punch marks on drilled through 1mm. I then clamped the template to the adapter blank with the pilot hole dead-centre. I spotted through all the 1mm holes with a 1mm drill then mounted the blank on our Triumph lathe. </div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Spotting_through_template_to_plate.jpg?v=1723041054" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>Then came the laborious task of hacking away a few kilos of waste material. I opted to retain the Ford starter and either the standard flywheel or a flex-plate from an auto transmission. This meant machining away clearance for the ring-gear on the engine side of the adapter - which is just what is happening in the picture below.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Adapter_plate_on_lathe.jpg?v=1723041054" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>In the following picture you can see the 28mm deep rebate for the ring-gear in the 40mm plate leaving a 12mm thick mounting flange for the Porsche Transaxle. I've tapped the mounting threads for the Ford starter and I'm just positioning it on some studs to mark the position of the starter nose which will stick through the adapter.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Starter_on_adapter_ring.jpg?v=1723041054" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>I used a simple hole saw to cut the clearance hole for the starter nose. The large-radius, curved edges of the adapter plate were milled on the rotary table. You can see here a rough-milled section that will be dressed later with a flap disc on an angle grinder.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Starter_nose_clearance_cutting.jpg?v=1723041055" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>Next job - see if it all lines-up. The adapter plate was bolted the the engine and the engine stood on it's nose with the adapter perfectly horizontal. </div>
<div>The tranny was lowered carefully into position, locating the mainshaft in the pilot bearing. A liberal layer of grease between the two plates minimised any friction, allowing them to 'float' into perfect alignment. Transfer punches, again, marked the exact positions of the transmission flange mounting holes on the adapter plate.</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/Engine_and_Box_on_end.jpg?v=1723041053" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
<div>But, were my calculations and measurements all correct? Is the mainshaft properly positioned in the pilot bush? A perfect test for our Borescope (part number #BORE), fed through the clutch slave cylinder hole. You can see on the screen the end of the mainshaft splines, then a small gap then the pilot bearing - perfect!!</div>
<div><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0581/0585/6054/files/BORESCOPE_SPLINE.jpg?v=1723041051" alt="" width="100%" border="0"></div>
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